Friday, 8 April 2011

Saturday March 14th.

Dan and John arrived back from Karl's hut about 9.40am. after passing a night in his little Cape Hansteen hut. All busy in the afternoon, John "making toggles," David drawing a map, and I sewing. No sign of the others and we had given up hope when Brownie came in late; he had left Sand and Andrew walking over the bay. A lot of talk and discussion. Put a record number of calibrations on the ionosphere, P't.

John announced suddenly today that he hadn't washed his face since Christmas and we discovered that none of us had - not that it seemed to matter. Dan had an amami (?) night and emerged quite different, and almost unrecognisable.



Sunday March 15th.

Everybody got up for breakfast though they said they wouldn't. Very congested. Dan's birthday and I made mincepies for it in the afternoon. Mended harnesses and helped to pack up for the Murchison Bay journey. Then just when we went to lash the sledges we found the Nansen broken. Whenever Andrew is going to start away, there always seems to be something amiss, but never so with John or David. Is this luck? Decided to put new runners on another sledge and had just cut off the lashings of one runner, when A shouted "stop" and on Sandy's advice the Nansen was taken in and the broken cross pieces spliced. This took some time so Dan's birthday party started late, but was a good show none the less, Brownie making an amusing speech and cigarette tricks. To bed soon after.


Monday March 16th.

A most unpleasant day. Whether it is due to the large number present at the Base now or some other cause, but there is a wave of sort of selfishness passing through everybody. Seeing that I was to be away from the base today I had planned nothing and was therefore in a position to help anybody, but there is a general atmosphere of pseudo-unselfishness in which nobody wants to trouble anybody else, and you just get ticked off if you offer to do something for anybody else. It's impossible to see everybody's wants, and nobody will ask anybody to do anything and will rather walk round the room to fetch something than ask somebody to pass it over. It gets on my nerves the same way as a person does when you ask him to tea, and he says "No, you must come to me, you gave me tea last time."

Sandy is on the side of co-operation, and it's a pleasure to do anything for Andrew for he appreciates it so much and sees you enjoying doing it. Dan is sensible, and John sometimes, but Archie does everything for himself, Brownie has always been impossible in this way, and recently David has become almost worse. It all makes you withdraw into your shell, and be "anti-social," and now that everybody else has gone off to bed I am feeling more normal. Have just had a political discussion with Sandy which helped a lot.

It began badly for this is the second day we have not departed for Murchison Bay on the day I had hoped. It was sunny at first with quite a wind, but the far side of the bay was visible though there was probably a lot of drift there. At any rate it was pronounced to be bad for the dogs in this present condition - and I am certainly not in a position to judge about this. Still it gave me another day for my head to get better - David's is too bad for him to think of going. Dan and Brownie have been making a sledge-wheel attachment and John working hard at the dog house. David has been developing hard and Brownie did a film too - some fine pictures of A.

Talked with Sandy about the end of the expedition; decided that I must go via Tromso to see Harang etc. and also via Oslo to see Hoel to whom we sent a cable asking if he could find somebody who will help with the meteorological results.


Tuesday March 17th.

Saint Patrick's Day. For the first year in my life, no shamrock: the mustard and cress crop had failed. Tried to make amends by making a Barmbrack - generally called a Crib Dohr on St Etheldreda's (or St Swithin's) day - but once again it didn't rise but tasted good just the same. In the evening made an effort to make an Irish stew out of bully beef, and was distinctly pleased with the result. Andrew produced some green ribbon, and I put some round Pat's neck and made shamrock shaped bows. John and David have been most amusing in their remarks about the festival - St Swit of Lower Belgravia according to John.

Wind as strong as ever, and departure of Andrew and myself out of the question. In the afternoon we lashed up the Nansen with the klepper on top - not an easy job as it's an awkward load and the wind was strong and the temp. -12℉.

The puppies are named now: Euphemia and Fatima (identical twins) Fuzziak and K2 (all bitches); Fuzziak, Pat, Leslie and No.8 (dogs). The one that died has been posthumously named A.N. Other.


Wednesday March 18th.

I'm getting most unsociable, but really when there are eight in the house, there are too many, especially when different people want different things. We have had peace for some days about bedroom question, but a new one started about the fire - Sandy advocating leaving the top open and those of us who use and manage the fire advocate a bottom draught. Then in the evening Sandy and Andrew advocated two pots of coffee, one strong and one weak. It's not so much the little extra trouble involved but rather the intolerant attitude towards the wants of others. Long quarrelings about the dogs. Sandy tries to be helpful, but Andrew is in one of his pessimistic and sulky moods but in the end same conclusions: the dogs are in such a poor state that we are going to draw on our reserve of margarine and bully to fatten them up, and the start of the Murchison Bay journey is postponed till Monday.

The drift was worse than ever this morning, and starting was out of the question, and with the International Day coming on I was becoming less keen on the journey. When David offered me to go instead of him with Dan I was really enthusiastic, and I would really like to go with Andrew, but there has been so much discussion about the bad state of the dogs I'm sure Andrew will be pessimistic about them all the time. However by Monday all may be well. Have recently been staying in bed till about 10am. and up to 2 o'clock or so, so as to have room and peace in the evening and get less in the way in the morning when I can get little done.

Archie finished the most ingenious piece of work of the expedition by mending Andrew's watch - fitting new hands and a new glass; he really has about the neatest fingers I have ever seen.

The hoar frost is getting thicker and thicker all over the house. The flour bags in the larder were frozen on to the wall and floor, the metal things in the dark room bite you when you touch them, and the bedroom layer of hoarfrost falls off when you breathe, so David who has a top bunk has erected a blanket curtain to prevent hoar frost showers during the night. Complaints are general about the cold, but with plenty of clothes I love it and wake up fresh after six hours sleep only.


Wednesday, 6 April 2011


Wednesday March 4th

A murky day, and still eight in the house. Dan and David chipped Hansigne's teeth as she is always chewing her harness to bits. It is impossible to get anything done - we cannot anything like all sit round the table - that I stayed up late till after 1.30 trying to clear up arrears of work.


Thursday March 5th.

Stayed in bed late. Karl went off to the other side, and Sandy, Brownie and Archie went away to Advanced Base with the Blacks to fetch the skiff and a few other things. Dan worked wonders by cleaning out Primus burners by gunpowder explosions inside - Karl's suggestion. It was a quiet day, so John worked hard at his balloons, only to lose them in the afternoon when his back was turned. David is suffering from a bad heel and a frost-bitten face and did little action outside.

In the afternoon I took the remaining dogs - Sesse, Angutinguak and Palase to look for the dump of pemmican beyond Cape Upik, but could find it nowhere. Dupilek and Hansigne came loose, and while the other dogs were meant to be sitting waiting, these two upset them and they started moving off. So I took them home to return to look for the dump on foot. John came too this time, and we soon found it, much nearer than I expected. Next time I harnessed Dupelik and put him in the team and shut up Hansigne and had no trouble except when the dogs all got restless and tried to go out into the middle of the bay. I thought of a bear, but am sure there was nothing. The Colonel was a great asset, and scarcely limped at all. Pleased at having managed the dogs entirely by myself, tho' of course it was nothing. The others came home with the skiff very late.


Friday March 6th.

Up in good time to get the Plancius Bay party (Dan and Sandy) a good start, only to find the fire out and no dry wood. Got it going eventually though it made things a bit late. John and I decided to accompany the others as far as Extreme Bay with some of the Blacks and an empty sledge. Sandy took as long as usual to get ready and we weren't off till 11 o'clock.

Knowing how much I enjoy driving, the others let me lead with the Odds and Sods and the loaded Nansen, while the others followed with the Blacks and empty rigid. The surface was very wet and sticky at first and we hardly moved and Dan came up and got them to go at walking pace, and I managed to keep them up to it. Then as we got near the mouth of Extreme Zeipel Bay we crossed over a slightly defined mark on the ice, and suddenly the sledge shot ahead with the dogs galloping and I was nearly left behind; to the eye the surface appeared almost the same, but it must have been much drier. After that it was fairly easy and we got up on to the land without difficulty.

It's the first time I've driven overland and it's more fun as you have to steer on the snow keeping clear of stones, and with the Odds and Sods who obey a word of command instantaneously it is not difficult, though in the more intricate places Dan had to walk ahead about 1½ miles overland till we reached our highest point from which there was quite a steep descent into Extreme Bay. Here John and I turned back; I hadn't realised there had been a following wind all the time until we turned round and faced it and some drift. It wasn't bad, but spoilt the enjoyment of riding an empty sledge. John drove home and did the lazy Blacks a lot of good. In the evening I played chess with Archie at the same time as I made some sheepskin gloves - it's the first time any of the games have been out for a very long time.


Saturday March 7th

This has been the most loveliest day we have had yet on the expedition. The sun rose soon after 7, and shone all the time in an almost cloudless sky with practically no wind and a temperature of -20℉. John occupied himself with balloons and this time had more luck and quite a successful ascent. David tried to train the Oarks in with the Blacks, but couldn't control them on an empty sledge. In the afternoon he and I went out with the Blacks to try to get them in some state of obedience, and though they were frightfully unruly and practically nothing can be done with them when they are heading home, we think we did them some good.


Sunday March 8th

A fairly fine, quiet and warm day, a day to be outside on, but nothing compared with yesterday. Since the bedroom had at last been tidied and most people were out I took the opportunity of dealing again with my bed. Almost every day the same fruitless argument takes place as to whether the bedroom is to be kept above or below freezing point. Archie is definitely on the above 32 degrees side (when all the walls and roof thaw and drip), and I am definitely in favour of keeping it freezing, while the others are uncertain, or change their minds and vocillate (?) and humandha, and Brownie won't make a decision. As long as you have plenty of bedclothes I find you sleep wonderfully well and awake unusually fresh. Today I sewed up a blanket to fit between my sleeping-bag outer and inner as I always toss about so much. As a matter of fact things don't fall off as they are frozen on to the wall.

John was photographed in his observatory and David took some pictures of dogs etc. and I did some whipping practice. We had an early lunch and then split up in the afternoon. Brownie, John and David went for a walk into Zeipel Bay, Archie tried to take Dupelik for a walk to the North but couldn't cross the tide-crack without getting wet, and so skied instead.

I did my best to tame the Blacks again; at first I couldn't get them over the tide-crack and had to go ahead myself - in water above the top of the komagers so that my feet got soaked, and they came over in the end. As long as the dogs were not heading for home they were most obedient. I cleared traces almost at once as they got very entangled crossing the tide-crack struggle and after that headed over towards Cape Hansteen and they behaved really well and if they went a bit crooked when crossing some rough stuff they got on a straight course again on word of command, and stopped when told and started off again without my getting off the sledge. Then we headed North and they behaved well as soon as they saw they were not going to be allowed to turn for home. More running about and then we set off for home, and they just legged it; no effect when I said 'Unipok" so I whipped them right round to face Cape Hansteen and stopped them. So we tried again, and again I failed and this time they just took control and I had a fine fast ride home and they made no bones about the tide-crack this time. We'll train them yet; at any rate they are crossing less and the traces were almost clear at the end.


Monday March 9th.

A nasty day with drifting snow until the evening when it cleared up to be a fine night. Was really awakened this morning when doing the fire; it was nearly out so I put on some sticks but as they were a bit wet I poured some paraffin on too. It seemed to have no effect so I stuck my face down to see what was happening and then it suddenly flared up with a flame 4 ft high - a flash all round my face but it lasted only a second, and nothing caught fire. There was a smell of singeing and it was an incredible sight when I looked in the mirror and found hair, eyebrows, eyelashes and beard all singed and grey. Most of it brushed off and apart from slightly painful eyes and a tender skin no ill effects.

Spent most of the time doing things indoors - putting up bookshelves, cleaning up larder and rearranging stores etc. After 4.30 it cleared but it was too late to do anything. A wonderful moonrise at night, clear cut above the ice-cap, but showing most astonishing unsymmetrical shapes, sometimes like a rugby ball ready for a place-kick, and always with straight edges like a clipped coin.


Tuesday March 10th.

Quite a fine morning again with our lowest temp. -22℉. I hope we are going to have a lot of these fine quiet days in this spring. David had the cine′ camera out and took a reel of the black puppies coming out of their den. We have an early lunch nowadays so that we can have as long an afternoon as possible.

I took the Blacks out again in the afternoon - without Akuliak this time as he had a bad leg. David wanted a picture of them and we had a bad time trying to get them in the right place, but when that ordeal was over, they behaved much better. Going over towards Cape Hansteen they obeyed every word of command though I couldn't get them to move fast at all. Coming home I gave them frequent Unipoks to see how near to the Base we could get before they went wild and took control. They first refused about 300 yds. from the point, but I managed to turn them right round; then when I went to drive the words into their heads by force they ran for the Base again pulling me hanging on to the traces until at last they stopped - it was my own fault. Then I drove them round and took them towards Cape Upik where they unipoked. Then back towards the Base, and they actually unipoked again at the tide-guage. We then went in to rest on our laurels. John, David and I then went to watch Archie and Brownie ski, and started a new sport of sliding down snow slopes.

Just before supper to our surprise, Dan and Sandy arrived back from their geological journey on which they had got on so well that they came back two days early so that the rest of the spring progress could be got on with. They had seen no sign of life at all on the North coast in Nordenskjold Bay which is bad. We now have practically no dog-food (except pemmican) and the sooner the journeys get off the better. So it was decided that Sandy and Brownie should go to A to fetch Andrew tomorrow and David and John decided to go to the Advanced Base to fetch some things back.

Separated my windproof trousers and made a fine general pair from the inners.


Wednesday March 11th.

I was a fool yesterday afternoon and let my right ear be frost-bitten - you don't feel it at the time but by the evening it was quite swollen and painful and with the other hurting a bit, had a lot of difficulty in getting to sleep since I couldn't lie comfortably on either side. So the alarm was welcome for once, and Brownie got up too to get his things ready. After lighting the fire on going outside I found Pamiok just outside so caught him and Akuliak and wired them up. Ayo was a bit wary, but sleepy and didn't realise how long his trace was, poor old thing, so he gave no trouble. It's as well to get these Blacks before they get any idea that they're going to be sledged.

The two parties went off just after 8.30. A tidying day afterwards - taking advantage of the few people in the house, for soon we will be 8 or even 9 if Karl turns up. Palase was shut up as he had a bad leg, but soon got out and was after the others, so I tried to mend the dog house. Dupelik and the two Oarks, who have been missing three days returned. Soon after 4pm. John and David returned - they had made a record journey to the Advanced Base in 2hrs 20minutes with the Blacks, beating Sandy and Brownie by ¾ hour. They brought back miscellaneous things and the Klepper.

Since then the international day has proceeded. Heard Jupiter on the wireless. Brownie saw six guillemots on the cliffs this morning.


Tuesday March 12th.

International day continued. Archie pernoctated up to after the 2am reading; I fell asleep then but he thoughtfully set the alarm for 3.30am., but I awoke before then and got David up for the 4o'clock run. All as usual except that I got very footsore doing the receiver all the time and the developing as well; the beauty of the transmitting is that you sit for it. The others all gave a lot of help.

Karl arrived in the afternoon with half a reindeer and news that he had shot three more oxen on the Hansteen peninsula, which relieves the food situation somewhat. Heard from Robert that Sandy and Brownie had reached A.


Friday March 13th.

It was murky at first, but Karl decided to go, and John and Dan went with him with the Blacks to fetch back the meat. On calling up Robert at 9am heard they had had a blizzard, and before long we got it here and it has b een blowing and drifting ever since. John and Dan have not returned - they would be coming almost straight into the blizzard if they tried.

It has been quiet here. I showed David and Archie how to work the ionosphere receiver and they seem interested. We left a P't (?) running and they have shown tremendous enthusiasm in putting on calibrations every hour, and we were all very upset when nobody remembered the 10pm. one. Last night David offered me to take his place on the next Murchison Bay journey and he renewed the offer today when I was more awake: typical of him. I wish we could both go.

Had a photographic day between lunch and supper - developed three films (mostly taken by Sandy on the Plancius Bay journey) and two ionosphere records. David did all the washing - it's a great help indeed to have somebody to do this thankless part of the job, for it means you can het on at about twice the rate.

The gramophone has been out a bit recently and we have "Jesu, joy of man's desiring" which recalls many happy memories.

Monday, 4 April 2011


Friday Feb 28th.

I had several nightmares at night for the others returned from the Advanced Base with Ayo running loose and without a harness, and it took us two months to catch him in that state last time. In the intervals when I was awake I tried to think out traps to catch the wily old beast in. Without Dan's help would make the journey more difficult and it was essential that Ayo should be safe in the Black team. Sandy had suggested that we should get off soon after 7am. so I resolved to get up at 6 to finish preparing and to get breakfast. When the alarm went off I got up, but then couldn't remember why I had got up so early and went back to bed and slept to be the last up, at about 8. It's fortunate we were late, for soon after breakfast David was seen walking back from the Advanced Base; he came back for he could find no inner to the pyramid tent. He was wet and tired, so we postponed departure till after lunch.

Several vain attempts were made to catch Ayo in the morning, but he made no false move. We inspected all the harnesses and had to renew some of them, and tied up some of the Blacks. We went off in glorious weather, and our first piece of luck was not long delayed, for after about a mile Ayo made a mistake and got in with and ran with his team, and got wedged between two pulling dogs pressing inwards in front of him and the trace ropes behind. I was for catching him on the run, but Sandy sensibly insisted on stopping. David, who was with the leading team, stopped just at the right time and I grabbed Ayo by the neck and rolled him over and held him while David put on his harness; heavens the old man was annoyed with himself, but was soon most forgiving. We had plenty more fun with the dogs, for quite soon Pamiok, the black king, slipped his trace, and then Palase got loose from the other team, but David got the latter easily and I made a lucky grab at Pamiok.

When we reached the Advanced Base, Sandy did the indoor work, while David and I dealt with the dogs. We wanted to be certain that the blacks did not run home during the night so we tied up Pamiok and Ayo to a loaded sledge with aerial wire, but after a few minutes Pamiok had broken through his and both were loose - luckily both still with traces so we got them again with patience. We then tied them up with really thick wire, and went in to supper. Sandy is a most excellent cook, but with spectacles fogged he put a whole tin of sago into the soup, and it was frightful.

After a pleasant evening we were just going off to bed when David went out and came in to say that Pamiok and Ayo were loose! They had pulled so hard that the sledge was slewed right round and they had untwisted the wire. Ayo was too wary but I got Pamiok and we put him in the lobby. The top bunk fell to my lot, but it was so hot and I nearly fell off and Pamiok began to get restless, so after a bit I moved down and slept on the floor by the door.


Saturday Feb. 29th

David was up at and we breafasted before venturing outside, to find Pamiok safe in the lobby, and Ayo asleep outside without a trace rope but still with a bit of aerial wire on him. David walked past him as if going to the sledge and when I seized the wire David fell on him and the old man was caught again.


It was an indescribably beautiful morning, already very light, and the Advanced Base bay was looking its best. All the way David took the Odds and Sods with the rigid first, and Sandy and I followed with the Blacks (and Merratark) and the Nansen. The dogs took the loads well and we got nicely over the bay and into the Hanstein valley. Even up the hill here the dogs had no trouble. Ayo was pulling marvellously; I do like him though daren't admit it to anyone. Kungasenak is the hardest puller and most genial in the black team. Soon the sun rose above the ice-cap and we convinced ourselves that we could really feel the heat (the temperature was -18℉.) Over the valley, where some high grasses were showing through the snow, and then we went down gently into Lady Franklin Bay. There was more rough pack in this bay, but David steered a good course, and we had to trot to keep up with the dogs. We camped on the level bay ice near the tide crack on the other side of the bay after covering about 23 miles. I didn't know the cooking technique and wanted to learn about the dogs, so Sandy was cook of the evening.

First two put up the tent, and pile snow round the flaps. The dogs are fed and the cook goes in and we hand in reindeer skins, sleeping bags, cooking pots, food and bowls of snow. Then he proceeds to cook the meal, while the others finish up outside and return to the tent to find the meal ready. Half a ration bowl full of pemmican does not look much after a long day, but I could only just finish it and half a biscuit afterwards. David expounded a sledging rule or two, but he has a sense of proportion as well as one of humour, and they were not observed on this short trip. A little drying of gloves etc. above the Primus, and then into our sleeping bags. I thoroughly enjoyed my first day's sledging.




Sunday March 1st.

It seemed so fuggy that I couldn't go to sleep for ages, but got some sleep in the end. Up at 6 instead of 4 as we intended! Started off about 8 in a gloriously clear morning with the temperature -26℉. Down the bay a bit as we had struck land a bit too far North, and then overland up hill. Here we saw two reindeer, but fortunately the dogs didn't and we hurried on. Lots and lots of reindeer tracks on the Wargentin Peninsula. We were not quite certain of the way, but on getting up we saw the valley beginning to dip down towards Murchison Bay. It must be a stream valley, as it is quite a gorge at times and there was one awkward place where we tried to traverse a slope and both sledges overturned in turn. We put a drag rope on the Nansen for the rest of the slope, and the rigid went miles ahead, but we joined up again when we reached the bay.

Murchison Bay is exquisite, and the sun seemed to be above the horizon for a very long time lighting up the cliffs with a purple colour and a green sky behind. Most of the bay ice was perfect, but twice we got into soft patches through which our feet sank, and the sledge went through once and got stuck but we got it out in the end. We were looking for David's island - South Russian Island - with an old Russian hut on it, but it was hard to say what was land and what was island, and David hadn't brought a decent map. We headed for what we took to be the correct island, up over a neck on to the other side, but could see no hut. We left the dogs and walked about trying to find out where we were, and in the end decided to camp and make a dump, as the ice looked bad ahead, and in the meantime before the next load is brought down we could look at a better map and perhaps find out whether or not the hut still exists. So we camped (temp. -16℉) and I did the pemmican etc. and owing to my not seeing how much tea I put in, I produced the strongest tea yet produced on the expedition. Slept well at night after a very good day. Sandy is a very pleasant person to camp with, always interesting, and David is his usual self or more so.


Monday March 2nd.

Up at 5am. as we intended reaching the Advanced Base that evening if possible. Breakfast consists of porridge, and I managed to take sugar with it (with relish) as the food is rather necessary. We also have ¼lb chocolate to be eaten some time - I eat it sledging as at night the pemmican is too filling. David took me on the front sledge at first to teach me, and then left me to lead up to the end of the bay.

It is the method of locomotion, riding or running behind a keen and obedient team. Angugssuak on the left and Angutinguak on the right are perfect and never change places, and little Hansigne pulls marvellously in the middle. A little more cloud in the sky, and a slight wind was blowing down the bay. When we reached the valley we cleared traces, David took the front sledge again and we did a magnificent non-stop journey straight over and down into Lady Franklin's Bay in about two hours. Again David gave me the front sledge - Sandy unselfishly stayed with the Blacks - and all went well for a bit till the dogs saw two reindeer on the right. I kept them straight for a little but then got my whip caught up, and as the deer made a sudden dash in front of the dogs, they went off. I lost control and after a bit got off to turn the sledge over, but missed my hold and lost the sledge.

In the meantime much the same thing happened to the others, for David had hung his whip on the back of the sledge and so got off to run between the dogs and the deer, but got left behind. Sandy fell off in trying to overturn the sledge. We were really in a very serious position for the dogs might have gone off for days, and we started chasing them hard. Unfortunately neither of the sledges overturned or got stuck, but after crossing a bit of bare land the dogs missed the deer - we could see the tracks - and both teams sat down about a mile away. We were really extraordinarily lucky. David led back to the bay, and then I carried on over the bay.

The wind was getting stronger from half-right and blowing snow along the ground, and it was hard to keep the dogs into it, and by the time we reached the bottom of the valley we were going up to find a shorter way home, it was distinctly a slight blizzard. David took the lead again now, and we went overland for a long time; we seemed quite lost but suddenly found the valley going down and reached Brandy Bay opposite Boat Point. It was really unpleasant now, but we were not far from our goal. The wind was gusty and would suddenly blow with great force in the opposite direction for a few seconds. We could see eddies rushing about. David went well, but Sandy was using the whip too much, upsetting the Blacks so that they were constantly changing, and we dropped well behind.

This was serious for the blizzard was getting worse and we soon lost sight of David and his tracks were covered over instantaneously. We took our bearings and found we were going all right, and then I heard David shouting and the dogs went towards him. We could now see nothing, and the wind was blowing the dogs over and they couldn't face it. We knew roughly where we were, and the only thing we could do was to abandon the dogs and sledges on the tide crack and search for the Advanced Base. We roped ourselves up to the whip, but I was blinded and merely a passenger, as I couldn't even see where I was putting my feet.

After a bit we found a flag: "We're on the glacier slope" shouted David until he remembers the flag marking the position of the skiff which is now drifted over. This was a help, and though I had no idea where we were David was magnificent and groping our way along the shore, often slipping over or being blown over, with visibility varying from 2 to 20 yds, we made slow progress until after about three quarters of an hour David found an old sledge track and after following it saw the hut. I never heard him say so, and the first thing I knew about it was when I fell into a deep hole from which drifted-over packing cases had been extracted, and then I saw the hut.

When I had thawed the ice from off my face and went out in a more normal state to get snow I estimated the wind velocity at 50m.p.h. - comparing it with our gale in October at the Base. It was now only about 3.30, but we decided to have a big meal in stages and then bed. Poor David was rather frost-bitten about the face, and both he and Sandy had frost-bitten finger-tips. We all managed to find three blankets and one other thing each and retired to bed with the two Primuses burning hard. I slept well but woke up about every two hours which was fortunate as the Primuses needed attention each time. The gale got worse and worse till about midnight, after which it dropped more quickly.


Tuesday March 3rd.

We were up at and there was no sound of the wind. On going out it was a most romantic morning, with a clear blue sky and the wind blowing snow off the highest parts and eddies of snow over the bay, but little wind in general. Sandy and I went off to fetch the dogs; they were very glad to see us. The Odds and Sods were got ready without much trouble, but the Blacks' traces had been badly tangled before we left them, and they must have had quite an unpleasant night - at any rate their traces were in a terrible tangle and I hadn't got them free before David came up to help. Then we went back to the Advanced Base and loaded up the sledges and put another harness on Ayo as his was broken - he is a remarkable dog. Then we started off, David and I with the Odds and Sods and a light rigid in front, Sandy and Blacks and a Nansen towing a rigid behind.

One or two of us had to sit in front most of the time or else we went too fast. It was sublime sitting behind that little team as it trots over the bay ice. After rounding Dog Point we ran into a bit of wind and drift, and we were afraid of a blizzard out in the bay, but though at first it got a bit worse, by the time we reached Zeipel Bay the wind had dropped and we got in without any further adventures soon after 2pm.

It had really been a marvellous few days, and I've enjoyed every minute of it - when we were going well, when the dogs were chasing the reindeer, and the exciting time during the blizzard. If only we had found the Russian hut it would have been a perfect journey as far as enjoyment goes, as it was it it can be claimed to be as successful as any other, due almost entirely to the sensible and unobtrusive way David managed the whole little show.

Karl was still at the Base, so we were eight, and a congestion it was. Most of the rest of the day spent drying clothes - and shaved.


Tuesday Feb 25th.

People came in driblets to breakfast today, but surprisingly early, Sandy himself setting a meritorious example by arriving before it was served - for there was a lot to be done. After a usual morning Dan and I set off with the four big Blacks and Merratark and Sesse to fetch back the sledge. The sun was appreciably higher today, again with beautiful colouring of the clouds, and with a red pillar rising vertically above the sun. All afternoon the colours were supremely beautiful and soft, a pale red sky near the sun, with pale blue sky above, a few coloured cirrus clouds, the white ice-cap and the black and white cliffs. It was very rough going over the ice, and we were much annoyed by the Oarks who were loose and came with us running into and upsetting the black dogs. All of us, even David, are getting fed up with the Oarks - they are so absurdly shy and silly, and they bully the Little Blacks mercilessly. We found the sledge after going about 4 miles (we were told it was 1½ miles away) with Teriengniak and Kayunguak there; those two are having a feud on at the moment. One of the sledge runners was broken, and the handlebars were in a sorry state, but after relashing we started off - or rather the Blacks did, for all the way through the pack they just rushed ahead until the sledge overturned or stuck. Pamiok's harness broke and he ran loose, and we spent a long time in the evening trying to catch him, but I got him in the end by the orthodox method when he made a false move.

With Sandy's authority Dan shot Dreng this morning; the poor dog made a courageous struggle for life and he got much better, but it is obvious that he will be useless for sledging, and we have all hated keeping him alive up to now. In the evening I pushed his body under the tide-crack, safely away from those foul Blacks.

Plans, plans, plans. Sandy now talking of an Eastern journey to Franz Joseph land instead of the Northern Journey, and this seems much better.

I was asked to send the following message to A station at night: "Has John left you yet", and it went thus: "Has John left you yes he has for he has just walked into the room." A really magnificent effort of his, all the way from A to here in less than 8 hours including a stop at the Advanced Base. He praises the Odds and Sods team to the skies.


Wednesday Feb. 26th.

Black hole of Calcutta! Went to bed unwisely a little early last night before I was really tired and it was so hot that I couldn't get to sleep. The temperature in the bedroom was 50℉ while we are used to 20℉. So I was relieved when the alarm went off early so that I could get breakfast etc. ready in good time for David to make an early start for the Advanced Base, whither he going to get ready the things for Murchison Bay. He went off with the Odds and Sods. Later Sandy and Archie started with the Blacks; at first they intended to look for Karl and then proceed to the Advanced Base, but at the last minute they decided to go to the Advanced Base first and bring a load and then look for Karl. An hour after they left we saw Karl with Spjaet (?) and sledge coming towards the Base. He hadn't spoken to Sandy but thinks he saw him. He was in good spirits but complaining of poor hunting. He is not staying long, which is a good thing for he and Dan together are dangerous.

An international day started at 4pm. and was as usual; John and Dan helped. John pernoctated (?) with me, and it was the same pleasant evening when he sat and chatted. During other intervals, however, he observed stars while I time-kept, and I also ran Polaris for what I expect to be the last time. Brownie sent off some messages to Bear Island at night.


Thursday Feb.27th.

Brownie was still sleepy in the morning, so Dan carried on at 8am. After that it was a most hectic day for Sandy and Archie returned; yesterday they had not seen Karl in the bay and had visited his hut and then gone to the Advanced Base. Sandy, Daniel and David were to go off to Murchison Bay tomorrow but as I came out of the darkroom in the afternoon Sandy suddenly said to me "would you like to go to Murchison Bay tomorrow?" Of course I clinched it. Dan had generously offered to let me go instead of himself, and then Archie offered Dan the Plancius Bay journey instead of him, so Dan was well pleased, tho' it was a bit hard on David that he should not be present when it was being decided who was to go on his journey. Dan advised me to remove my Karl Marx beard, so did so. In the afternoon Archie and Sandy took out Brownie's tooth - amusing to all except those concerned, for Brownie complained that the injections didn't kill the gum, and the others could not understand why not. In the end Archie pulled it out well. It was quite a busy time, ionosphere as usual, developing, holding Brownie's hand, the met., and preparing for the journey. Karl was most kind, and especially got an early supper for me so that I could get to bed early before setting off in the morning.

Friday Feb. 21st.

David did the met. this morning and when I went in to send it off he said that the temperature had fallen right down to -1℉. It really is ridiculous, but rather disturbing this time, for we have been resting the Petter during the hot spell, and I doubted if it would start again. We didn't get it to go for a bit, but getting the plug really hot did the trick and off she went, and we were only five minutes late for the ionosphere run.

During the morning it began to snow and since then it has been blizzarding. The Little Blacks seem to prefer our porch to their house and now they are all piled up against the door and don't even move when you go through. I am making real friends with more of them now, but Euphemia is still the general pet. Poor Dreng is still alive.

Tried to get on with the Base Camp chapter of book in the afternoon but could write nothing. I read right through the diary and am thoroughly ashamed of it.

Heard from Robert at night that the sledgers had not reached him yet. We hope they are at B and sent messages up to them there. It really is a bad arrangement Sandy's not having a transmitter - or is it? They may of course possibly be still at the Advanced Base and Brownie could hardly have come back today in the blizzard. The ice is still going out and there is a head of water now right up to Cairn Point.


Saturday Feb.22nd.

Slept through one alarm clock this morning and when I woke up the other said 7.22. Jumped out of bed to find the chronometer saying 7.19. Raced in to put windproofs over pyjamas, and komagers on feet, couldn't find matches to light the candles with, got a new box, rushed out to take the met. forgot to look at snow so guessed it when I got back - an extraordinary good guess it was - turned off the Petter, coded and got the wireless ready one minute before time. And after all that trouble couldn't get the met. through. They got all except one group, but I could never read what group it was - I always lose my head after a few words - and though I sent the whole met. twice again I don't think they ever got it. They did not reply to my last transmission - now 7.57 - so I gave up and saw to fire and breakfast, so the others had a good sleep till 8.30. Looked in to see poor Dreng; he looked up but later when David went in he wouldn't even raise his head. Later, however, he took Oxo, but for the first time whined miserably when David moved his leg. The poor dog took a lot of Oxo at night and was looking better, but we still want to shoot him.

Otherwise all has gone well. But all the ice north of Cairn Point has now gone out! A murky misty day, without much wind. David and Dan are wonderful companions we have long talks at meal times and peace otherwise, and for the first time for some time I feel I have time on my hands. Dan is certainly the most "intellectual" member of the expedition, and though I am still a bit afraid of him on that account I like him immensely all the same. He falls asleep, reading, almost continuously except when he is making a meal or doing something useful. David is the perfect companion, always helping and anticipating your wants. We heard from Robert that the sledgers have not arrived at A. Great conjectures as to where they are. "Bet you anything something we hadn't expected has been decided upon."

Colonel frightfully crusty this morning - his coffee must have been cold or weak - and growled when you talk to him, and when a Little Black went near he snapped the neatest of holes in its ear - it scampered away yelling loudly holding its head to one side. Later I saw Dupelik laying out one of his daughters - we always thought him a gentleman. The Little Blacks have absolutely taken the porch by storm and now don't even move when you go out, so you just have to step on them. They are getting more distinguishable and today I identified a Pinkiak.

Excited to hear Ireland beat Scotland at rugger (Ireland seems to be doing well this year) but bitterly disappointed to here Magdalen bumped New College.


Sunday Feb. 23rd.

Dan did the met. this morning, and though I had only shown him the way about roughly at noon yesterday, he did it and even all the coding with only one small mistake - he has learned much quicker than any of the others. It was a beautiful morning but there was no change in the state of the ice. In the afternoon we three went for a short Sunday walk in the bay ice; we think that there is no-one further North doing such a thing. It recalled the frightful Sunday walks I had to undergo as a small schoolboy, and I thought of the crowds of respectfully dressed citizens having their walk on the Downs; it must be dead now but will soon be springing to life. Except at the tide-crack, where I put my foot right through and got soaked, the ice was firm, and we went as far as the blue iceberg in Zeipel Bay. There was a red glow in the N.W. and the tops of all the hills round the bay were lit up in a beautiful manner which we could not explain. Though we had taken the trouble to arm ourselves we never saw even the tracks of anything else.

Heard from Robert at night that the sledgers have not reached A. Heaven knows where they are. Dreng is much better, moving his head about with vigour, yawning and absolutely attacking his food. In the morning I foxed the Little Blacks temporarily by putting a handle on the door of the porch. I don't expect it will last long, but all the other attempts - and there have been many - have failed through not observing the Base Camp rule, that in anything you make you must make use of some part of the Benndorf. Daniel's somnulence is amazing - he usually sleeps through large parts of the afternoon or evening; this evening he fell asleep during supper much to David's amusement and mine. Now 10.30pm. he is cooking himself a second supper.


Monday Feb. 24th.

An eventful day. First of all Dan went outside at 6am. and came back saying that the black team except Uncle and Kayunguak were outside. This set us conjecturing at breakfast as to what can possibly have happened now.

John had calculated that the sun should be visible here tomorrow, but we calculated ourselves yesterday evening that it should certainly be visible today from the top of Snotoppen - we cannot calculate exactly as we don't know the angle of the ice-cap above the horizon. So we decided last night that if it were clear we would damn the ionosphere etc. and climb Snotoppen and sun-worship. However it was overcast early so we did not cancel the noon report to Bear Island. However all the time I was doing the charts in the morning the clouds began to break in the South, and became coloured by a more and more vivid red. Just before starting the ionosphere run, I noticed that a lot of the colour had left the sky, and was almost certain that the sun was just visible above the ice-cap. I got the field-glasses, and there it was, less than a quarter of a huge red ball, but no doubt about it. The others came out and we were all entranced and excited, we watched it and photographed it before returning to the ionosphere. It was an occasion for which we had been waiting long, and one of such beauty that it should be described better and more fully than here.


From Robert at last we got news, and as expected, unexpected. B station had been evacuated and we were to expect Brownie, Archie and Sandy at the Base this evening; John and Andrew were at A with him, and Andrew would stay.

At supper time it was dark and there was no sign of the sledgers, so we assumed that they couldn't come as they'd lost their dogs. Looking back on it, it was a most selfish little party we had that night; there was one bottle of champagne that was to be drunk on the day of the sun's return and we were certainly justified in having it. But what is one among three? Another bottle was for the departure of the Northern Journey, but our first conclusion when we heard Andrew was staying at A was that the Northern Journey is cancelled. For months this problematical journey has been being prepared for, sometimes it would seem possible, then the ice would go out or a dog would be lost and it would be off. Recently a smaller modified Northern Journey without a supporting party has seemed possible; I think all of us are getting fed up with it, and in favour only in that it is something for Andrew to do something on. But with Andrew at A it seemed definitely off, so we argued that two bottles among three people and one among nine is better than one bottle among three people and two among nine. So we had the Northern Journey bottle too! I think we - I certainly so - felt upset that our little party would be broken up next day. David and Dan get on frightfully well together - they will live together most of the summer in Murchison Bay - and I like them both very much. What we have done in the last week is little - there are a lot of things undone that should have been done, but we have been late to bed, up early and I have read only about 20 pages of a book. We have spent literally hours talking and gossiping over meals. It's funny that as soon as there is a change anywhere the departed people are criticised severely and their characters picked to pieces - not nastily, I think, and it is really much the most interesting part of the expedition that you get such a close insight in other people's characters. "Helply" as Karl would say, would be a fitting adjective for David and Dan for they have most willingly helped me with my work all the week. I have hardly been able to prepare a meal even. I hope there will be more enjoyable weeks than this one, for they will be sublime.

Soon afterwards the others arrived, with Sesse and Merratark. Kayunguak and Teriangniak had refused to move half way across the Bay, and they had to leave them and the sledge. Brownie had not had his tooth taken out, and they left the pincers in the dump, so he has to endure the tooth till they can be fetched. A great to-do (and under cover of a smoke-screen from a burnt rissole I managed to get the champagne bottles outside and down the tide-crack) and a lot said before they retired to bed.

Dreng is much better physically and ate meat, though we cannot look at his wound as touching his leg causes such pain.

Saturday Feb 15th.

Another beautiful quiet day. First excitement was when Brownie saw a bear on the coast to the South. He and John armed themselves and went after it, but the bear went faster and they never got within range. They noticed a bird when they were out - the first this year.

Later in the morning John sent up one of his balloons at the end of a string just as a trial - he had fortunately found the key of the hydrogen cylinders after a long search. The first balloon was seized and punctured by Ionoark who was chased at great speed by John before she gave it up. The next was kept from the dogs though the little blacks swarmed in masses all around, and was slowly inflated. When about 3 ft. in diameter John released it, and it rose rapidly moving at first slightly to the North though the surface wind was gentle from the North. Then after ascending vertically for some time it met a higher current from the North at about 250 feet and drifted South. So far, so good. Next it was to be pulled in on the winch, (ie. a sledge wheel.) John was most proficient at this till Brownie put in a hand and then it went so fast that the string ran off the rim and got so hopelessly entangled round the axle that they had to cut the string and knot it. Then John brought it in at a great pace, but was so concentrating on his swinging style that he neglected to watch the balloon and continued winding as the latter rapidly approached the earth. It rushed into the staple through which the string was guided, broke the string, and reversed its direction of motion. In a few minutes it was out of sight towards the ice-cap. Robert has not seen it.

We have been out of whale-meat meal for the last few days and the Colonel, the Oarks and the Little Blacks have to be fed on bully. The latter are getting pugnacious and when I take the met. readings there are eight mouths eating and thirty-two feet scratching at my trousers. Euphemia continues to be especially friendly, but she is rather an outcast from the family. It must have been fine sledging today, and the others should be back in a few days.

Have been lazy and morose lately; must wake up, so started energetically on a skeleton for suggested chapter in book on base-camp, and wrote till late.

Sunday Feb. 16th.

It's always Sunday here. Took drastic measures with the hygrograph and thermograph both of which at this time give endless trouble and practically no results. They should be better now. Though rather misty and dull, I could chop firewood in the bedroom soon after noon without artificial light - a distinct advance. John went up Snotoppen to ski, but got little and got lost on the way home; Brownie went up the glacier later, but I practised skiing on our nursery slope and made a little improvement thanks to a suggestion of Brownie's. Afterwards wrote up book chapter hard. Clear at night with Polaris and Aurora working.

I win a moral victory; it's a curious habit of almost all members of the expedition when anybody does anything for anybody or for the common weel to ejaculate "marvellous" or "wonderful" or "wizard", to which I always reply with the proverb "Praise in departing." The loaves I made this time brought forth the usual comments, but there is an enormous cavern in the middle of each surrounded by a wet layer of unbaked dough. Now I fancy there will be refusals.

Monday Feb. 17th

An absolutely epic day. At first pottered about a bit, rearranging the things around the fire so as to find a new place near the fire for the saennegras. Then after the ionosphere run John and I decided to go for a walk North, putting up the fallen traps on the way. I wanted to try out my finneskos. John decided to get the automatic rifle working as a defence weapon so we didn't get off till soon after noon.

It had been a glorious morning with only a few cirrus streaks in the South. The wind was getting up as we set out, but we had our backs to it. Just as we were looking for the first trap John said, "There's a bear" and there it was galloping easily but quickly from an iceberg on the bay ice towards the shore.


John has a bad leg, so I went back for the revolver - he had the automatic rifle - and to tell Brownie to come along when he had finished with Bear Island. Ran hard both ways, and John had walked on looking for him. We soon found old tracks of his following John's tracks of yesterday, and then struck the ones he had just made. We followed them to land and then they went along the bay ice round a point. We went ahead warily and then found the tracks going to land. Here we lost them and scanned the screes and cliffs; I saw a yellow patch half way up a snow slope and suggested it was he. John didn't seem to see it and I never trust my eyes so we walked on. Then I saw the tracks going up to the yellow rock and just at the same time John saw it and it got up and glissaded down the slope towards us. We cocked our guns for he was evidently curious. He walked along the shore towards us, and then mounted a high ice-covered rock. He faced us from the top, and raised his head high in the air, then lowered into his paws, up and down. We decided to shoot simultaneously; mine failed to explode - but John made a marvellous 40 yard revolver shot. Standing high on the rock the bear just collapsed and fell off head first. We approached carefully and John put in two more bullets for safety, but there is little doubt but that he was dead. As a matter of fact he turned out to be a she.

It was a really great event. Then of course we had no knives, so I went back for some and some rope, meeting Brownie on the way. When I got back I found they had moved her without a rope, and had dropped her down the tide crack. However one leg was above the surface and we got a rope round it and fortunately got her up on to the ice. What an anti-climax it would have been if we had lost her in the end. Then we proceeded to skin her under John's directions tho' he had never done a bear before. Brownie left after a bit to put on komagers - he only had climbing boots on - and to fetch an axe and John and I finished the skinning. Not half a messy as I expected, and the warm flesh and blood were very warming to cold hands. When Brownie returned we decided after all to finish the cutting up at the Base. So we pulled her along with ropes, and when we got to the Base cut off the legs and head and stowed them and the carcass on top of the porch and with difficulty we slung the skin up on the meat (?) rock. Just as we finished Brownie saw the sledges approaching and in a few minutes they were in. After that it was a confusion of voices and they all looked tired; they had had a terrible journey with practically no sleep owing to inadequate tents and li-los, so that their sleeping bags got soaked through.

Bear stew for supper - our first fresh meat for a long time, a good stew but the meat itself, though tender, was rather tasteless. Long talks about future plans etc for the rest of the day. Dreng has been almost killed by the Blacks.
Tuesday Feb.18th.

Wonderful to have the others back again. An unpleasant warm windy and drifty day and it was spent mostly indoors doing various things. Managed to fix a mount for the telephoto lens for Andrew's camera. Had roast bear at night and enjoyed it though it was burnt on the outside and raw inside.

Wednesday Feb. 19th.

Was up earlier today to inspect the weather and to get breakfast ready as early as possible. It was somewhat retarded by my not being able to find John. When I got out of bed I noticed he was not in his bunk above mine, and it appeared to have all the clothes on it that it had when I went to bed before him last night; he was not to be seen in any of the other bunks or in the next room - thought he might have gone to sleep on working out his astronomical observations. No sign of him outside up and early; thought he must have gone outside when we were in bed and been polished off by a bear, but no human remains about, nor could I see him anywhere chasing bears, nor in the observatory. So I gave up the search.
It was fine outside cloudy with a moderate wind and intensely hot - up to 20℉. Andrew was doubtful as to whether they should start and said he would decide after breakfast. Then as I went into the larder to get the eggs I stepped on John - the real Arctic explorer trying to get away from the tropical heat! After breakfast there was the usual long deliberation as to whether they should go; finally decided when Dan came into the room and said "what a fine day for sledging it is." The party consisted of Andrew, John and Brownie going first to B and thence nobody knew whither. Brownie was going to B to have a tooth removed. They finally got off at 10am. So David, Dan and I were left at the Base, and though it has turned out to be a nice day we have had a lazy time. Ionosphere run as usual, and I was dreading sending the met. to Bear Island as Brownie had failed to get through in the morning, but I sent both reports three times and he got it ok - and again in the evening.

After taking 2 hours over lunch David made some first class rock buns and scones in the afternoon. Couldn't read Robert's morse at night as his note jumped from one pitch to another. We fried the bear at night - and found it quite good. After supper David - rather bravely I thought as he was not very certain what to do - lanced Dreng's leg. His wound is ghastly and the poor animal is in such a state. Then a quiet evening.

Thursday Feb.20th.

What is the good of coming here? I do wish that John had been here at the Base for the temperature, 27℉ in the morning, rose steadily and reached the phenomenal temperature of 32.4℉ - thawing in February when we were told to expect -40℉. Robert was sweltering in 23℉.

An inactive day, though anything but unpleasant. Daniel is a fine conversationalist, and David likes talking and arguing, so our mealtimes occupy no small fraction of the day. With an effort we broke up breakfast and cleaned out the water butt and were generally active in the morning - ionosphere, met and developing as usual. Dan, who had a bad time on the Wahlenberg Bay journey and is very tired, slept from 3pm. to supper which started at 7 and finished at 9.30. You get a wonderful insight into characters and human nature on an expedition like this and no sooner is there an exodus than everybody's character is analysed and discussed at length. Expedition matters are a constant source for discussion, and there is always a lot of mutiny about. Learnt by accident today that Archie is leading the summer survey journey (John and Archie), a most ridiculous idea - so much so that I never thought but that John would do so, as he is the expedition surveyor, while Archie knows little about it, and has planned all the survey and equipment etc. and has more experience and enthusiasm. The fact that Archie is organiser of the expedition has nothing to do with the case - we all had no end of preparations to make for our scientific work while he had none. It must have been a big blow to poor John but outwardly he has borne up well; it would mean something to him to lead the journey and make a success of it for he is eminently an explorer and will come again, but I don't suppose Archie intends to.

Poor Dreng is still alive; last night since the smell in the hall was getting pretty bad and it was so warm we opened the door and piled packing cases in front to leave the top open, but Dreng got out during the night. He seemed so much happier outside that we left him till it was getting dark when David put him in one of the doghouses - much to Dupelik's annoyance as he seemed to regard that one as his own. David couldn't get Dreng to eat anything today. I wish we could put an end to his life; I can't bear to look at him - he hardly lies down but just keeps his head off the ground, waiting. Old Dupelik is a character - he now reminds me of the white haired limping guide in Oxford, for when you go out of the door, he limps up to you and buttonholes you, though I don't quite know why. The Oarks are as ever but more bullying to the little Blacks - I love them more and more daily. Tonight when Dreng wouldn't take the marmite soup David gave him, he gave it - in a pie dish, to the eight; they all tried to get their noses in and it was slid on the snow backwards and forwards like a ball in a scrum. It came out cleaner than it has ever been before.

Started on the mustard and cress today - grown on flannel - and found it absolutely natural to taste, but yellow in colour. Fresh vegetables and vitamins!

Just before we went to bed last night, ie. early this morning David remembered that this is the official half-way through the expedition, but though it occurred to me several times during the day we did nothing about it. But it is astounding how quickly time has flown since John, Andrew and David arrived here. It is unbelievable that it is two months since Christmas. Up till then time did drag a bit, but since then it has been quite the opposite and I hate to think it will be all over soon.