Friday, 27 May 2011

Monday April 6th.

A wonderful day. I had the pleasant task of taking a sledge down to the Advance Base to fetch back a few odd things like pot handles, klepper paddles, matches etc. Little can be written, though one of the most enjoyable days up here. There was not a cloud in the sky, and the sun was shining brilliantly, and I wore snow goggles for the first time this year; the dogs gave little trouble and a large part of the time I just lay back on the sledge and basked in the sunshine. The air temperature was about zero, but in the dead calm it seemed very warm, and Dan and Brownie, who were surveying, walked over the ice stripped to the waist. The dogs were Angugssuak, Spjaet, Palase, Sesse, Amalortok, Angutinguak. They gave a little trouble settling down, but afterwards went well. The soft snow on the surface made the going slow, but it was too lovely to worry about speed, and I must have taken over three hours to reach the Advanced Base, though I stopped several times to take photographs.

The Advanced Base is fun when you are by yourself and there is no need for a stove, for then you can leave the doors open as you go in and out - always a difficult manoeuvre in that hut. In order to be sure of missing nothing I just spring-cleaned the whole place - there were no brushes so not much cleaning could be done, but I moved everything. Having found practically everything, and lashed up in a bit more than two hours, I started off for home. The sun was lower and not so warm, but I just sat on the sledge and still kept warm. With their tracks to follow home the dogs went more perfectly than I have ever known before. A little vocal encouragement now and then, but otherwise I just left them.

It's fine to be by oneself for a bit and not have to worry about anything, though enjoyment like this one would like to share with somebody else. In spite of the soft surface, it cannot have taken more than 2½ hours, getting in at 6.30pm. The traces were perfect at the end as only Palase and Sesse had interchanged at all, and only three times during the whole journey. I was very pleased to be entrusted with the dogs by myself, and also finished my three-hundredth mile sledging.

The others were all busy when I got home. Archie had been doing Bear Island, and he and David had done the Ionosphere. It's the first time neither Brownie nor I had been at the base, and those in favour of 'co-operation' v 'independence' scored a fortunate point - from the work of the independents. The boxes were almost ready for the dump in Extreme Bay, and Sandy asked me to go with David tomorrow with it. Then it was decided that John should go to B with his theodolite, and since David hurt his leg a bit, I fortunately was the only person available, though if it were absolutely calm John said he would not need an assistant. So it was settled that I should go if necessary. With the prospect of sledging 55 miles the next day, I went to bed early.


Tuesday April 7th.

John was up at 5am., but it was calm and he said he needed no assistant. I should have loved to go on a day like this, but it would have been unnecessarily exacting as we expected trouble with the Extreme Bay dump in the evening, and besides there is always such a lot of preparing work now. Still I got up then to help with the dogs and get breakfast. It was so quiet that I was warm just with windproofs over pyjamas. Getting the dogs ready took longer than expected as two didn't have harnesses and several had no trace ropes. Ionoark was included in the team and caused a lot of trouble by her wildness and John was taken all over the big snowdrifts before they went off quietly soon after 7. I stayed up to do Bear Island, and then went back to bed, as only Archie was about and I expected to be up the next two nights. Got up for the ionosphere run when I loosened Hansigne whom I had tied up to prevent her following the others. Apparently she went off almost at once, following their tracks and arrived at B five minutes after John. Her devotion to Dupelik is most touching.

Loaded up the dump sledge and got the 930lbs into a very neat load. It looked marvellous, but we wondered if the dogs could move it, as Andrew wanted to rest Hansigne. At night a farewell dinner for the two journeys and after that David and I set off, and John was in sight coming home from a successful day. Marratark is on heat, and David decided not to take her unless necessary as the team would be so unruly. Andrew helped us to get off, indignant that Sandy didn't even come out to see if he could help. Except for the evacuation of B (when the loads were only estimated,) it was the biggest load of the expedition, and with the soft snow we all expected a hard trip, probably with relaying overland. It was mostly a dump for the Northern journey and it certainly was distinctly idle, and very typical, that he didn't come out to see what could be done. The example he has set during the last few days - indeed ever since he has been here this time - has been the worst possible, and most of us are about fed up working at his journey preparations while he just fiddles and does nothing.

Though we only had eight dogs, the sledge went off on the heavy surface slowly but without undue trouble. Andrew had asked David to drive them as he is the best and quietest driver of us all, and he certainly deserved the tribute, and managed the dogs wonderfully all the time. The going was slow and at first we pushed too: the 7ft Nansen with sledge wheel was trailing behind and was a bit of a nuisance. Gradually, however, the surface got not as slow and pushing was unnecesary, and by the time we were inside Extreme Zeipel Bay the dogs were trotting and making light of the load. They climbed up on to the land with alacrity, and we didn't clear traces till half way across the land. We stopped only two or three times and restarted without much difficulty each time. When we reached the steep slope down into Extreme Bay, we only had a piece of trace rope as a drag, and I went ahead hoping to check the dogs; but they just went round and tried to get past by a worse route. So we both just hung on to the sledge and let it take its chance. David was tripped up by the back sledge, but all reached the bottom without any incidents. Then across to the other side of the bay, where we laid the dump.

It was almost cloudless on the way, but when we got to the dump it was snowing slightly. We had only just done it, for we were using the old broken Nansen, and when we unloaded we found all the cross bars broken except the back one. The snow was only slight and the dogs, with tracks to follow, went back magnificently and at a good pace, needing no driving and just a little encouragement. We just sat on the back of the sledge and talked and chatted. It was a grand ride home and we got in soon after 2.30am. after one of the most enjoyable times on the expedition. I had more or less been challenged to eat a pound of pemmican and did so though I'd have been glad of more exercise.


Wednesday April 8th.

Got up for the ionosphere run. I had had quite a lot of sleep and seeing the others working around I would have helped in the Northern journey preparations, but since Sandy was lying awake on his bunk I just mutinied and went back to bed - I had some justification too, as I would be up all night. I got up just after him at lunch time. The International Day started at 4pm. as usual, but difficult with all the shambles around. In between the runs I managed to do quite a lot of Andrew's preparations.


Thursday April 9th.

The others didn't go to bed till after 2pm. and then peace. David again pernoctated so the night passed only too quickly - he is always the best of companions. Now that he can work the receiver it means that I get a change at the other end. As Brownie was tired he slept on and I tried to do Bear Island, but I couldn't read what turned out to be his saying that he couldn't hear us. Karl had breakfast with us and the others got up later. There was not much to be done for the Northern journey, as they were down to personal things and learning about navigation. John finds them incompetent with the theodolite and says so, but they are confident of managing it. Andrew tries hard, but just isn't good at that sort of thing. Then John asks if he can have Hansigne to strengthen his team as she is such an enthusiast; he wants quiet dogs, but he has got the eight worst pullers, all a dead lot, and there is no-one to encourage the others. In the end they decide to change Hansigne for Upik.

David and I went for a short walk with the little Blacks during the afternoon to keep awake - he has been most "helply", for usually he needs a lot of sleep. At last the sledges were ready, and we had supper before going out. With Merratark in the team, the Blacks were terrible to manage. The team was Angugssuak, Palase, Ayo, Pamiak, Akuliak, Kungasenak, Kayunguak, Merratark, Upik and Angutinguak. Ayo has now established himself as king. Poor little Upik didn't want to go; she had a large eye-splice on her harness and twice slipped her trace before starting and ran back to her family. Euphemia literally came up to her and kissed her good-bye. Just before 9 0'clock they got off, the dogs already most unruly. Brownie and Karl accompanied them to Extreme Bay, but for David and me it was a case of bed.


Friday April 10th.

Brownie arrived home in time for the met. so I didn't get up till it was time for the ionosphere run. Afterwards I developed a film to see if my camera was mended properly before John and Archie took it away on their journey. We helped them when possible, but they have prepared for their journey so quietly and well that there was not much for us to do. I started spring cleaning the larder: with the higher temperatures lately the larder has been thawing out and the floor flooded. From the floor and walls of half the room I collected 1½ waste paper boxfuls of ice - what a mess there would have been if all this had melted. The flour bags were frozen on to the floor and a lot of the contents and the porridge spoilt. An early supper for John and Archie to get off, but during the meal the wind changed and there was a S.E. blizzard blowing when we were finished, and it would have been absurd to start - a great disappointment to them. The first quiet evening for a long time.


Saturday April 11th.

John was up early but decided the S.E. wind was too strong for starting, but it soon died down and they decided to go. It was incredibly warm, up to freezing point, but it was fine to be able to stand about outside without gloves or headgear and without the slightest discomfort. They had an unadventurous start. The base will be very dull and different without John who is generally the centre of amusement. The wind had blown all the ice out where the lead used to be, and we feared that the skiff would have disappeared. David, Dan and Karl went out to look for it, but in vain. This is rather a blow. Soon the wind changed to N.W. and by noon it was blowing a real gale. This kept us in in the afternoon and we started a grand spring clean. Brownie and Dan started on the ground floor, and David and I on the loft. The roof was covered by ice or hoar frost ½ to 1 inch thick and we only managed to get a little more than half the work done. On the S. side it came off quite easily - we have been hearing lumps of it falling at times during the last few days when the sun has been shining on the roof. With the high temperature in the morning there were drips everywhere in the house. Some lumps we just can't get off, but we can do about 95%, which will prevent a flood.


Sunday April 12th.

Blizzard. More spring cleaning, and David and I continued with the loft. At 5.30pm. the Northern party returned. Merratark has caused so much trouble that they found it impossible to manage the team and came back to wait till she is over it in a few days. Why instead of wasting days coming and waiting here - where there is no more food and less chance of getting any - they didn't either wait at North Cape and hunt from there, or else shoot the bitch and proceed, none of us can understand, nor Andrew explain. And then poor Sandy fell on the way home and is in bed with concussion.


Monday April 13th.

In the blizzard a most unpleasant day for changing charts. Sandy stays in bed. Spring cleaning proceeds. David and I unfortunately finished the loft - it's been good sport. In the evening the weather improved. I gave a tin of Horlicks tablets to the puppies and they ate them greedily; this is cheerful for we have two or three hundred tins of these and we still have a little cod liver oil (meant for us, but they love it!) so, poor things, they won't absolutely starve, but we would like to get them a good meal.

Tuesday, 17 May 2011

Sunday March 29th.

It was a fine day, but we could hardly get off at once, as nobody told Archie he was expected to go, and I tried to mend my clothes. I spent ages trying to mend my finneskos, then put them above the fire to dry, only to find when I went to put them on that they had fallen down and burnt. I was mad.

We left in perfect weather, I leading with Odds and Sods, and with empty sledges reached the Advanced Base in 2½ hours - a good time considering we sat all the time except when we wanted to get warm, and Angugssuak broke his trace and Archie dropped his whip, and I went back to fetch it. I had suggested to Archie that we should go on up to B that night, and he agreed. Sandy was in the Advanced Base when we got there and we decided all to go up to B after a meal which Sandy prepared - away from the Base he is always wonderfully good in getting meals, cleaning up etc.

The sun was set when we went off, and the rather diffused light on the glacier was most fascinating. This time I could see about when we were at the top. A level bit, then up to the top of Mt.Toil where B was. I didn't see the remains of the station till we were almost on it, and then the Stevenson screen, ablation stakes etc. all covered with snow and hoar frost loomed up ghostily. It was cold (-30℉) and we set to work after admiring the view from the top - it was a bit misty but the north coast could be seen running along to the east, Cape Hansteen as beautiful as ever, and the Seven Islands, like seven tortoises, visible to the north. We built a cairn consisting of the snow gauge, seven flags, a paraffin drum and the hoar frost beacon. The hole of the dome tent was snowed over, but we were careful not to fall through. Then it remained only to pack the sledges and this caused difficulty for the paraffin drums are so difficult to lash on. We got the Nansen well done and it remained perfect all the way, but the rigid had to be relashed twice in the first few hundred yards. When we reached the glacier Sandy had trouble with the rigid: no suitable drag rope could be found and it went over once bending the runner rather badly. The Blacks and Nansen got down without any trouble.
We were back soon after 2am. and the others went in while I cut up the bear meat we had brought for the dogs. I went behind the house to do it, but Kungasenak soon knew, and suddenly the Blacks dashed round the hut dragging the heavily loaded Nansen backwards with the traces underneath. I stood over the meat and shouted for help, but they couldn't hear. Luckily the sledge stuck and the Odds and Sods couldn't move theirs, so with Archie's help we got peace again. The Blacks didn't have much room for movement, but we didn't feel like unloading the sledge at that time of night. Into bed just after 3am.


Monday March 30th.

Not up till soon after noon. Breakfast. The sun was shining but there were gusts of wind down the glacier. The others collected all the things inside while I cleared the dogs and unlashed the sledges and loaded up the rigid. All the time the gusts were getting stronger with drift until the weather was really unpleasant. At last when we got off the wind had changed to be against us. Sandy went ahead with the rigid and Odds and Sods, Archie and I with the Blacks and Nansen behind. The wind got worse round Dog Point and it was nasty past Boat Point. At Boat point Sandy let me take the front sledge; the visibility was poor and we couldn't see Base mountain at all, and I kept too much into Zeipel Bay and ran up to the island, but got a glimpse of our cliffs for a second and so afterwards could steer by the moon. It was lucky going so far into Zeipel Bay for we had an almost perfect surface, and it certainly saved time coming round so much.

Andrew was at the door when we arrived with the news that all the others had gone to bed - at 9.15! - except John of course. Andrew saw to and fed the dogs. It's amusing to arrive at the base in these days of overcrowding. You are most unwelcome as can be seen in everybody's faces. On Saturday only Brownie showed any activity and got us a meal. Today John was most annoyed, and only after a quarter of an hour did he feel he ought to offer us a meal. David admitted later that he was awake but pretended to be asleep to avoid having to get up or being thought ill-mannered! I'm not a bit offended: it's just the same with all of us and I rejoice as much as anyone else when anybody goes away.


Tuesday March 31st.

Shambles: great preparations for the journeys, sledges and Nansen boats everywhere. A new plan. Dan and John have been waiting for days to take observations from Cape Hansteen, but the weather is so variable that the best thing is to live in Karl's Cape Hansteen hut and jump up when possible. John now is so busy. Brownie cannot go with communications coming on, and David doesn't want to, so I am again fortunate. Had been filling up a luxury ration box for ourselves.

We were just about to depart when Brownie asks Dan for his help as the Austin is giving trouble. This took the rest of the day; with all the shambles and fuss I was all for going off even late, but the weather got worse and visibility so bad that it was out of the question. I sat up during the night in case Brownie wanted help. The Austin radiator leaks as a rule so I went out hourly to fill it, but it was behaving well and hardly leaking at all. Then Brownie had to change wavelength which meant making changes to the aerials - a cold job. After a bit he had to close down as interference made conditions too bad. In bed about 5am.

John made a most successful April Fool soon after midnight: he came in in a well feigned slight alarm asking if the Bear's liver had been given to the dogs as Pamiok was looking very ill outside. Was taken in at first till I remembered the date, but Sandy was well taken in and rushed out in alarm.


Wednesday April 1st.

Haven't recovered from the 36 hours in bed in Murchison Bay, and couldn't sleep after 8 o'clock so got up. Weather still impossible for Cape Hansteen. In the afternoon got out the ozone spectrograph and put away all Polaris and Auroral things. Wind got up in the evening with heavy drift. Had a long fight with Sandy at supper. I resent very much that the monthly averages of the meteorological results of B station should be left for me to work out - it's a long and dull job which anyone can do, and there is too much evidence of the idle life led there for any arguments as to there not having been time to hold any water. They didn't take met. readings on Sunday morning which doesn't really matter very much, but will look bad on the monthly report which other people will see, and besides set a very bad example which was noticed by all five of us at the base in January. Sandy's idleness really does annoy me - and others too.

Communication with England began at 10pm. and we had to change wavelength again. Dan came out this time and we did it in an absolute blizzard. Dan says he'll be furious if he doesn't get a message after that. All went well afterwards and since the radiator was all right I went to bed at 1.30 and Brownie finished all the schedule a few hours after. Karl is a magnificent storyteller, and we were in fits at supper.


Thursday April 2nd.

Drift and storm as strong as ever. Brownie did the met. as he was still up, but I was up before Bear Island - I still am waking up very early. A photographic day, and there has been so much activity preparing for the journeys - a tent in the living room now - that I could attempt no serious work. The drift is incredible and you have to dig your way into the engine room each time. Curious things going on in the ionosphere; we hardly got an echo today at local noon, and since then have carried out abbreviated P'f's (?) at two hourly intervals up to 1am. Didn't get through to Bear Island at all today, and since we didn't last night that is 4 in succession. Ozonoak was in to have stitches put in by Karl this afternoon.


Friday April 3rd.

One of the rather dull days. The wind has died down a bit and the drift much less, but even now at night it is blowing pretty hard. Since noon, however, the sun has been shining, and that makes all the difference. The surroundings of the house have quite changed and two enormous drifts have developed in front, one of these extends over the tide -crack and has a fine crack in it itself. The sledge which Dan and I were going to take to Cape Hansteen is completely buried and I can't find it. Three more failures to get through to Bear Island, though the ionosphere seems normal. Contact at 10pm. and some messages off. Sledges have been in again and tents up in the living room. Since we've been bach last time I've moved into a top bunk which is much nicer in many ways and I am now learning how to get into it, tho' last night I all but fell out. The old argument of Independence v Co-operation has been going on more heatedly - Archie, Dan and David and Sandy and Self today, but only Dan shows any common sense. He has the most balanced mind of anybody on the expedition. Got news on the Empire programme for the first time today.


Saturday April 4th.

Did the met. this morning for the first early morning for nearly three weeks. It's astonishing that the more work a person has to do the later he gets up - Sandy and Andrew almost the last. It's hard on and rude to Karl who is a natural early riser and can't get on with his work on the Nansen boat until they get up.

Poor visibility and drift again. The late risers gave me an opportunity of cleaning up all round the fireplace. We tuned in to the Empire program before noon to chance the Boat race - we didn't even know the date of it - and there it was and the commentary pricelessly funny. At night Bear Island told us "Cambridge won the Henley race today. Oxford had bad luck for the thirteenth time, old man."

In the afternoon David and I opened 70 tins of pemmican and wrapped it up in paper - rather like playing shop again. I had Dan's German Linguaphone records on at the same time until they were removed and music substituted. Amusing to hear the old records again, and instructive. I'm forgetting the language frightfully quickly. Andrew and Karl have made a really first class boat with a Nansen as framework - this one has oars and a sail. Communication with Robert is getting more reliable - today we had a long talk without a single repeat. The little Blacks have been huddling in the porch all day: poor little things are getting thin and find it hard to keep warm. Fuzziak is a pathetic sight with her coat full of snow and Euphemia is as sweet as ever; she still yawns in your face continuously.


Sunday April 5th.

How quickly the Sundays come round. We have a saying that it's always Sunday. Nansen noticed it too. Calm at last and slight snow falling. Towards noon it improved and the sun shone quite strongly at times. There was an ionosphere breakdown, so while Brownie was mending it and the sun was shining I got the ozone spectrograph out, but when I later developed the plate in the afternoon it was a tremendous disappointment. I knew, of course, that I could not expect much after breaking the filter last year, but I did have hopes that it would be sufficiently good to make it worth while continuing without the filter. My scientific work for the expedition is now just about finished.

More preparations for the northern journey; it's grand to have it calm and warm enough (0℉) for you to be able to do things outside in your indoor clothes - I have been filling paraffin tins, opening cases and helping Andrew with the food boxes of the two journeys. Others have been engaged with tents, sail, whips etc and Karl has been away visiting his traps all day. He brought back a fox, but in general it was "not a track, not a track - I cannot understand it." After finishing with Andrew I went up to join the others skiing - it is more than a month since I've done this, but I couldn't find my ski; in the meantime a reindeer had been seen on the bay. They shot it in the end and we pulled it home.

Sunday, 15 May 2011

Thursday March 19th

At 12.15am. this morning (or last night) Sandy suddenly came to the conclusion that it would be best if Andrew and Archie and I got off this morning, and so it had to be so. Archie was to be left with tent and provisions on the Wargentin peninsula to hunt and be picked up on the way home. Sandy was up at 6am. to investigate the weather, and I was very annoyed when he came in and said it was calm and fine for travelling. So we got all ready, and after breakfast went out to lash up and found the wind getting up, and either fog or drift out in the bay. Since we had decided to go only if ideal we decided not to go, but when the wind dropped again Andrew and I went out into the middle of the bay to see what the wind and drift were like there. I was now keen to go, and enthusiastic to try a dash to Murchison Bay and back by 4pm. Saturday when the equinox International day begins. However, the wind was distinctly stronger and we decided to wait till Monday and in the meantime fatten up the dogs. So our food reserve was raided, and Sandy made a hoosh of bully, margarine and sago, and the dogs were brought into the hall in pairs and fed. Ozonoark came in for medical attention. Brownie made the first bag of the season bringing in a Mandt's guillemot which David examined biologically. It is wonderful to hear the sound of birds again.

John went out to look for seals in the afternoon, but in vain. You always know when he is going out, for he lifts the Singer machine on the table to patch his windproofs first. Andrew, Archie and Brownie went skiing, but I want to rest my heel. David put some sheepskin edging round his windproof hood, which was successful, and I must imitate. For me it's been one of these days when you always seem to be busy but really do nothing more than clear up. Conversation at supper turned on conjuring and hypnotism; David was full of it, and by strength of will John, Dan, David and Archie lifted me two inches off a chair with only one finger each, but we couldn't do the same to Dan! Then acrobatics for some time before settling down for the evening. Had just started a game of chess with Archie and remaking Sandy's duffel gloves at the same time, when an Aurora appeared overhead and we had two ionosphere runs on it. A pleasant quiet evening after that.

At midnight I remembered I had put bread in the oven at 7pm. but found it hardly browned so it must stay in all night and hope for the best.


Friday March 20th

To complete the sequel, the bread wasn't finished when Andrew started the fire off in the morning, but was burnt soon after. I have got into the habit of staying up late at night and getting up late (9.30 -10) in the morning - it helps to solve the congestion problem. Equinox today. Everyone hard at journey preparations. Dogs still being fed up on bully and margarine.


Saturday March 21st.

It's always fine and sunny now, and we haven't seen more than a trace of cloud for days now, and the temperature has stayed about -17℉. Really marvellous weather. The Blacks broke open the dog house and got out, so Andrew and I had to mend it, and the Blacks were left outside and the Oarks put inside. John and Dan went off surveying in the morning, and in the afternoon Sandy, Brownie and David went skiing. I prepared for special equinox International day beginning at 4pm. Since then we have been hard at it, a run every hour, though I miss every other one for developing. Everybody is very helpful; I think they enjoy doing it.


Sunday March 22nd.

It's always Sunday. International day has continued from yesterday. David has been the pernoctator with me, and an absolutely perfect companion he is. He has been learning to work the receiver, and we took it in turns to do it. He managed it well and I think enjoyed it. He is enterprising and seems to enjoy learning to do other things. It was light all through the night and about 4.30 the tops of Cape Hansteen and David's cairn were lit up with the most beautiful pink glow as the sun rose behind our hill, a beautiful tint below a pale blue sky and above the white bay and whitened rocks. Dan and John went off to survey but were driven back by wind, and Archie and Andrew found seals in a lead of open water to the North, and David and Sandy went "in quest of the Spitzbergen Ptarmigan." In the evening a party went off with the skiff and sledge to hunt seals, but David and I retired early to bed.

Just before getting into bed the hunters returned with three seals, and inside one found an unborn one.


Monday March 23rd.

Andrew let me sleep long and had done most of the work before I got up. Breakfast, and off at 8.45am. - with the inevitable cinematographers. It was a perfect cloudless still day, and though the temp. was -16℉ we soon got very hot, and I had to take my windproofs off after a bit. It was then that Andrew remembered he had left several things behind - the revolver, the short ski that Archie had worked late at to get ready in time, and our travelling chocolate. We were absolute fools not to go back for the gun, as we might easily meet a bear, and the loss of a single dog will probably wreck the northern journey

The ice was hummocky but hard, and we made a good time over to Karl's valley hut - Andrew with Odds and Sods in front, I with Blacks behind. I was sweating more than at any time since Eights last year by the time we reached the hut, and was glad of a small stop there, and we went in. It's the first time I've seen the hut since last autumn, and it really is a neat little abode. We wrote a note on the lid of a cheese carton. Then over the Hanstein valley - this time there were a large number of wind ridges and there was nearly a casualty when Andrew led into a place from which it was difficult to get out; he got down all right, with his rigid, but the Klepper nearly had its nose broken when I went over the edge. I lost a paraffin can sometime before I noticed the handle-bar wire had broken. The sledge wheel which had broken before went again, but we had it on for the rest of the journey, and it couldn't be put in a better position if it were really meant to bash your shins.

The valley ended rather steeply and I overturned the Nansen in trying to stop it running into the rigid in front, and the bow and right-hand runner got a bit damaged. Karl has another hut there, and we looked in, but he had not been there for some time. After that, over Lady Franklin Bay, and I led with the Odds and Sods. The going was very heavy, and after a bit Andrew went ahead with the Blacks; but this was no better, indeed it was worse, for he couldn't manage them; he was unfit too after being at A and had fits of giddiness. We struck the land by an uncharted island and we were definitely too far north - I wish I were more observant for really I was quite lost; looking for a green iceberg was not much help, for there was a row of six evenly spaced ones all along the shore. It was a bit better on land, but the soft snow made it hard work for the dogs. We have pitched camp after about an hour on land, and I hope we are not far from our camp of last time. The tent seems a bit small. Andrew has done the inside work and we have had our full rations of pemmican and could do with more. Found we had left even more things behind - paraffin funnel, pincers, saucepan handle.

It began to snow slightly, but it seems very warm - up to 0℉. A good day, on the whole, but I am very anxious about our position.


Tuesday March 24th.

Up at 5 after a good sleep with the tent door open all the time. Again clear and sunny, and we were off at 7, again Andrew ahead with the Blacks. He took some photos. We made height gradually, but I got more and more lost. Andrew was confident of finding the way, but got infuriated with the constant up and down. Again we soon got hot and windproofs off. Enchantingly coloured solar halo. After some time we found a way down, but it certainly was not the right one; we were at the top of a steep gulley with a sharp bend at the bottom. There was nothing to be done but go on down it; there was deep snow, but we put on drag ropes as it was very patchy. Andrew went ahead and disappeared round the bend, but I got stuck in the deep snow. I got out and they went off. I tried to brake with my heels in the orthodox manner, but lost my heels and had to brake with my knees - better in the deeper snow. The snow got harder, the runners cut through the drag rope, the sledge raced ahead out of control, rapidly overrunning the dogs, rounded the narrow bend, mounted the side and overturned. I thought the sledge had gone over Amalortok who was lame, but at the end of the crash found him sitting on top of the sledge. The handlebars were broken and a runner bent a bit.

Andrew had reached the bottom in safety, and after righting the sledge and getting the dogs straight I joined him in the bottom of the valley we should have come down. Then over Murchison Bay - this was sticky and a terrible surface. I led now with the Odds and Sods and for a bit they went really well, settling down to the order:- Angugssuak, Palase, Sesse, Hansigne, Amalortok, Merraterk, Angutinguak and they all go wonderfully well; little Hansigne is just marvellous, and with her in the centre steering is easy. On passing one island we saw four reindeer, but the dogs didn't see them.

Just afterwards Andrew noticed a hut further on on the island, and we went to investigate it as
it might be of great importance to the Ds. A hut with a room about 7ft square and a narrow hall in front, full of snow but apparently in quite good condition, but without doors. A fox track beside it.

Then on again. I had difficulty passing the north end of Inner Russian Island, for the dogs were determined to land, and did so till I stopped them; in trying to get them back Sesse got his trace wound round my legs, and in fright bit my hand as I tried to unwind him. Discovered the refreshing effect of snow and chocolate - chocolate ice. After that we ran into some pack and Andrew lost his temper frequently. We changed sledges, and got through quite quickly after only about half a mile of the pack. After that the surface was wet and very slow and the Blacks had a much harder time of it than the others. I fell far behind and really felt uncomfortable when we went along the new track of a really big bear. What fools we were about the gun.

The Blacks really did pull hard if slowly, even little Upik pulling like a Trojan between two enormous toughs. Andrew's temper became worse as we progressed and it was really unpleasant - making futile objections to being always sent for other people to look for a thing that doesn't exist. He now developed a bad knee, and at last I persuaded him to halt and go ahead on foot to prospect. We did so, but after a bit he said he could go on no further. I went on for some time and had a pleasant walk on the land too finding a lot of driftwood, but no sign of the hut or another bay: no doubt we were too far west for the bay. Andrew seemed better when I got back and we camped on the land with the dogs on the ice. Very anxious about bears as we have seen four other tracks as well as the big new ones.


Wednesday March 25th.

An uncomfortable night, as the tent hadn't been put up right and we couldn't stretch out. Drift and wind in the morning, and the sledges couldn't be seen from the tent, so we had to stay in.

Had a quiet morning reading, sleeeping, talking, thinking. It's no fun househunting for other people; there were so many things, and I turned it over in my brain and discussed it with Andrew; something like this:- should we make the dump on Hut Island ? advantage of the hut and a certain place for the dump, no pack to manhaul over and not far from David's dump in case I can't find it? No, surely the island is too small, and if decision wrong it means a big load to be taken elsewhere. But David is keen on having a hut. Should we take it down and move it ourselves - daren't suggest it to Andrew as we really haven't time, or tools. What about settling our load on Inner Russian Island with the old dump - then it would be more central if they decided either on South Russian Island or Hut Island? Or shall we look for a conspicuous place on S. Russian Island and put our dump there and leave David's; so that in either case only one dump would have to be moved? will it be too far for them to take the hut over to S. Russian Island and over the pack too? Didn't David say, on Inner Russian Island when we were there last time, that if it weren't for the chance of a hut, he would settle there at once? Yes, but he has found that paper since, showing the superiority of S. Russian Island........... Deliberating in this manner in my mind occupied most of the morning, and in the end we decided to make our dump on S. Russian Island - further East - and to fetch David's dump and to leave the hut - tho' this made it almost out of the question for the Ds to have any choice at all, but still.

In the afternoon it cleared and the sun shone, with a light wind and drift whirling along the ground. It was oppressively hot - right up to +20℉ - and the surface was soft and sticky, there was lots of water round the tide creek, and the tent was high on a snow hump - the rest having been blown away - and on the edge of a lake. One of the sledges was under water and the dogs unhappy, but intact.

We went off in opposite directions by foot to investigate, but Andrew soon came to the end of the island and climbed to the highest point. I, too, was convinced that we had passed the bay and had missed the N.E. point of the island. However I found an unmistakeable big rock with a cornice and hollow behind, and thought it would be a good place for the dump. I went on a bit and I am sure identified the bay, but couldn't see the hut. On the way home I met Andrew and he agreed with my suggestion that in view of our doubt as to our position - he soon questioned whether we were on the right island (which is quite possible) - we should mark a cape near the dump with a paraffin drum. On a conspicuous point I took some bearings and found an iron hoop on the top - like a part of a barrel: it looks as if the Russians had a party up there.

We went back to our camp and got packed up and started off. The surface was frightful and Andrew couldn't get the Blacks to go at all. His temper went again, and it was no use my keeping on stopping and starting, so I thought it would be more pleasant to go on myself, and then go back and help him. I should have taken my sledge straight back, but I didn't think he would relay on account of the Klepper so went back until I saw he had removed the Klepper etc, and so went back, and unpacked the rigid. He then arrived and after a few nasty words went back for the rest of the load while I started making the dump. When we had it all in the hollow and covered over, we set off - even with the empty sledges the going was slow, but when we reached the small pack between the islands it was hard and quite exciting. We found our old camp, and pitched our tent, as it was 10pm. by then. I had a short dig for the dump but couldn't find it - wish I had taken more notice when David buried it. Found an old fox trap quite near where I was looking.

The tent is up well this time; poor dogs, there is no food for them. Really tired in this atmosphere and have had full ½lb pemmican ration and ¼lb raw as well! Looks black, and am depressed at not finding dump.


Thursday March 26th.

Again wind and drift at first. Went out to dig for dump. Most unpleasant. After I had been digging for some time, Andrew gave up hope and fed the dogs. Then suddenly I hit it. Just made sure, then ran for cover, for A decided that if we couldn't move it today we would have to leave it, and leg it for home. Lay in sleeping bag and slept contentedly, and luckily the weather cleared in the afternoon, and Andrew decided we could risk a dash to the dump and back here again and thus not have to break up this camp.

We got the load lashed on and Andrew found a grand way through the pack. We left a paraffin drum on Drum point - it looked marvellous at a distance - and then finished off the dumping. All done, gott sei dank. The Blacks were mad and when Andrew tried to make them follow me down to the ice again they went in the opposite direction to investigate a hole, and it was some time before he got them down on to the ice on the other side of the rock when they decided to go back and have another look at the hole. At last he got the dogs and sledge behind me. We changed sledges and then away, but the Blacks thought they would have just one more look at that hole and dashed up to it and round to the top on the far side, the sledge falling into it, and quiet reigned only when they stopped at the top, with the sledge hanging almost vertically over the edge and with me hanging on and lying on my face at the bottom. After that they were more docile for a bit and followed the others home.

The surface was better now - temp. down to -18℉ - and riding an empty Nansen over pack ice behind a mad team was a sensation never to be forgotten, sheer excitement all the time and better than anything at Wembly. Once when I was behind after helping the sledge over a lump on the shore, they dashed ahead and dragged me about 50yds over loose stones, tearing my windproofs in many places.

We got home all right but the dogs could not be fed as there was only ½lb. pemmican left for each of them; they were ravenous too. Upik and Merratark had a fight and both were bleeding when separated. There was a convenient lump of ice in the form of an arch, and we anchored the Blacks by putting the sledge on one side and the dogs on the other with the traces passing through the arch. Peace reigned after a bit. Food getting scarce.


Friday March 27th.

My first day in bed since 1927. Though I had brought a large library I slept nearly all the time and couldn't even summon up energy enough to mend my windproofs. Finished half our porridge with an equal amount of sugar for breakfast; wouldn't be deprived of our full pemmican ration at night: we must keep warm and we can't keep the primus going all the time. Even the primus nearly failed at night due to rotten washer. Wind howling all the time. No special thoughts but was worried about the date, - thought it marked something important but in the end came to the conclusion that it is merely the date of the earliest Easter I remember.

Food situation critical: all we have now for both of us is:- 4oz porridge, 1lb pemmican, 1lb chocolate, 1lb sugar, 1½lb margarine, 20 Vita- weat (keep you slim), 2 edible candles. All right if you can get off tomorrow, but starvation awaits us if we don't. Not much paraffin either. Present weather: blizzard, temp -22℉, wind 20mph. Outlook ugly.


Saturday March 28th.

In spite of all last sleep we didn't wake till after 10am. Sun shining, not much wind and no drift. We tried to waste no time and soon had breakfast ready; we were finishing our porridge - this time with twice as much sugar as porridge. As a matter of fact we did waste a tremendous lot of time and didn't get going till 12.45. Upik was very lame, though Merratark seemed well. We cleared traces after going over the narrow neck of the island, and from there we went magnificently non-stop to more than half-way over Lady Franklin Bay - about 25 miles - before we had to stop. Upik had been lagging behind all the time and had got the traces entangled, though half way across Lady Franklin Bay they were tangled for no more than 18 inches - much better than the Odds and Sods. The Blacks really were superb today - they are a magnificent following team.

It was a bit cold at first riding across Murchison Bay; I was wearing komager as my finneskos had fallen to bits, but they were adequately warm. Got hot crossing the Wargentin peninsul, and was warm ever after. Lost the broken whip in Hansteen valley coming out of which we got lost and arrived at the top of a steep descent into the bay; it proved too steep for the Nansen and I couldn't stop it overturning. However all was well. Andrew then decided to try the direct route to the Base across the pack, but before long he regretted it, and more. It was sweaty work, but I rather enjoyed it though my komager got broken to bits. It gradually got better and we could ride in. The tide guage nearly met a sad ending, for Akuliak was determined they should go to the right of it while Kungasenak was set on the left. I had no whip and they were heading for it at a great pace, but I just managed to jump off and catch them up and turn them.

We got in at 7.45 after a perfect journey. Andrew is wonderful when all goes well. We had a huge meal. We were supposed to have returned via the Advanced Base and disestablished B finally, but we had raced home on account of the dog food. We found Sandy had gone to the Advanced Base geologising. So there was a lot of deciding as to who were to go down next day. Andrew was rather busy, and John and Dan couldn't decide whether to take their observations next from B or from Cape Hansteen. At last they decided it must be Cape Hansteen first, and so luckily there was no alternative but that I should be one, and Archie (who was asleep) the other.