Monday April 6th.
A wonderful day. I had the pleasant task of taking a sledge down to the Advance Base to fetch back a few odd things like pot handles, klepper paddles, matches etc. Little can be written, though one of the most enjoyable days up here. There was not a cloud in the sky, and the sun was shining brilliantly, and I wore snow goggles for the first time this year; the dogs gave little trouble and a large part of the time I just lay back on the sledge and basked in the sunshine. The air temperature was about zero, but in the dead calm it seemed very warm, and Dan and Brownie, who were surveying, walked over the ice stripped to the waist. The dogs were Angugssuak, Spjaet, Palase, Sesse, Amalortok, Angutinguak. They gave a little trouble settling down, but afterwards went well. The soft snow on the surface made the going slow, but it was too lovely to worry about speed, and I must have taken over three hours to reach the Advanced Base, though I stopped several times to take photographs.
The Advanced Base is fun when you are by yourself and there is no need for a stove, for then you can leave the doors open as you go in and out - always a difficult manoeuvre in that hut. In order to be sure of missing nothing I just spring-cleaned the whole place - there were no brushes so not much cleaning could be done, but I moved everything. Having found practically everything, and lashed up in a bit more than two hours, I started off for home. The sun was lower and not so warm, but I just sat on the sledge and still kept warm. With their tracks to follow home the dogs went more perfectly than I have ever known before. A little vocal encouragement now and then, but otherwise I just left them.
It's fine to be by oneself for a bit and not have to worry about anything, though enjoyment like this one would like to share with somebody else. In spite of the soft surface, it cannot have taken more than 2½ hours, getting in at 6.30pm. The traces were perfect at the end as only Palase and Sesse had interchanged at all, and only three times during the whole journey. I was very pleased to be entrusted with the dogs by myself, and also finished my three-hundredth mile sledging.
The others were all busy when I got home. Archie had been doing Bear Island, and he and David had done the Ionosphere. It's the first time neither Brownie nor I had been at the base, and those in favour of 'co-operation' v 'independence' scored a fortunate point - from the work of the independents. The boxes were almost ready for the dump in Extreme Bay, and Sandy asked me to go with David tomorrow with it. Then it was decided that John should go to B with his theodolite, and since David hurt his leg a bit, I fortunately was the only person available, though if it were absolutely calm John said he would not need an assistant. So it was settled that I should go if necessary. With the prospect of sledging 55 miles the next day, I went to bed early.
Tuesday April 7th.
John was up at 5am., but it was calm and he said he needed no assistant. I should have loved to go on a day like this, but it would have been unnecessarily exacting as we expected trouble with the Extreme Bay dump in the evening, and besides there is always such a lot of preparing work now. Still I got up then to help with the dogs and get breakfast. It was so quiet that I was warm just with windproofs over pyjamas. Getting the dogs ready took longer than expected as two didn't have harnesses and several had no trace ropes. Ionoark was included in the team and caused a lot of trouble by her wildness and John was taken all over the big snowdrifts before they went off quietly soon after 7. I stayed up to do Bear Island, and then went back to bed, as only Archie was about and I expected to be up the next two nights. Got up for the ionosphere run when I loosened Hansigne whom I had tied up to prevent her following the others. Apparently she went off almost at once, following their tracks and arrived at B five minutes after John. Her devotion to Dupelik is most touching.
Loaded up the dump sledge and got the 930lbs into a very neat load. It looked marvellous, but we wondered if the dogs could move it, as Andrew wanted to rest Hansigne. At night a farewell dinner for the two journeys and after that David and I set off, and John was in sight coming home from a successful day. Marratark is on heat, and David decided not to take her unless necessary as the team would be so unruly. Andrew helped us to get off, indignant that Sandy didn't even come out to see if he could help. Except for the evacuation of B (when the loads were only estimated,) it was the biggest load of the expedition, and with the soft snow we all expected a hard trip, probably with relaying overland. It was mostly a dump for the Northern journey and it certainly was distinctly idle, and very typical, that he didn't come out to see what could be done. The example he has set during the last few days - indeed ever since he has been here this time - has been the worst possible, and most of us are about fed up working at his journey preparations while he just fiddles and does nothing.
Though we only had eight dogs, the sledge went off on the heavy surface slowly but without undue trouble. Andrew had asked David to drive them as he is the best and quietest driver of us all, and he certainly deserved the tribute, and managed the dogs wonderfully all the time. The going was slow and at first we pushed too: the 7ft Nansen with sledge wheel was trailing behind and was a bit of a nuisance. Gradually, however, the surface got not as slow and pushing was unnecesary, and by the time we were inside Extreme Zeipel Bay the dogs were trotting and making light of the load. They climbed up on to the land with alacrity, and we didn't clear traces till half way across the land. We stopped only two or three times and restarted without much difficulty each time. When we reached the steep slope down into Extreme Bay, we only had a piece of trace rope as a drag, and I went ahead hoping to check the dogs; but they just went round and tried to get past by a worse route. So we both just hung on to the sledge and let it take its chance. David was tripped up by the back sledge, but all reached the bottom without any incidents. Then across to the other side of the bay, where we laid the dump.
It was almost cloudless on the way, but when we got to the dump it was snowing slightly. We had only just done it, for we were using the old broken Nansen, and when we unloaded we found all the cross bars broken except the back one. The snow was only slight and the dogs, with tracks to follow, went back magnificently and at a good pace, needing no driving and just a little encouragement. We just sat on the back of the sledge and talked and chatted. It was a grand ride home and we got in soon after 2.30am. after one of the most enjoyable times on the expedition. I had more or less been challenged to eat a pound of pemmican and did so though I'd have been glad of more exercise.
Wednesday April 8th.
Got up for the ionosphere run. I had had quite a lot of sleep and seeing the others working around I would have helped in the Northern journey preparations, but since Sandy was lying awake on his bunk I just mutinied and went back to bed - I had some justification too, as I would be up all night. I got up just after him at lunch time. The International Day started at 4pm. as usual, but difficult with all the shambles around. In between the runs I managed to do quite a lot of Andrew's preparations.
Thursday April 9th.
The others didn't go to bed till after 2pm. and then peace. David again pernoctated so the night passed only too quickly - he is always the best of companions. Now that he can work the receiver it means that I get a change at the other end. As Brownie was tired he slept on and I tried to do Bear Island, but I couldn't read what turned out to be his saying that he couldn't hear us. Karl had breakfast with us and the others got up later. There was not much to be done for the Northern journey, as they were down to personal things and learning about navigation. John finds them incompetent with the theodolite and says so, but they are confident of managing it. Andrew tries hard, but just isn't good at that sort of thing. Then John asks if he can have Hansigne to strengthen his team as she is such an enthusiast; he wants quiet dogs, but he has got the eight worst pullers, all a dead lot, and there is no-one to encourage the others. In the end they decide to change Hansigne for Upik.
David and I went for a short walk with the little Blacks during the afternoon to keep awake - he has been most "helply", for usually he needs a lot of sleep. At last the sledges were ready, and we had supper before going out. With Merratark in the team, the Blacks were terrible to manage. The team was Angugssuak, Palase, Ayo, Pamiak, Akuliak, Kungasenak, Kayunguak, Merratark, Upik and Angutinguak. Ayo has now established himself as king. Poor little Upik didn't want to go; she had a large eye-splice on her harness and twice slipped her trace before starting and ran back to her family. Euphemia literally came up to her and kissed her good-bye. Just before 9 0'clock they got off, the dogs already most unruly. Brownie and Karl accompanied them to Extreme Bay, but for David and me it was a case of bed.
Friday April 10th.
Brownie arrived home in time for the met. so I didn't get up till it was time for the ionosphere run. Afterwards I developed a film to see if my camera was mended properly before John and Archie took it away on their journey. We helped them when possible, but they have prepared for their journey so quietly and well that there was not much for us to do. I started spring cleaning the larder: with the higher temperatures lately the larder has been thawing out and the floor flooded. From the floor and walls of half the room I collected 1½ waste paper boxfuls of ice - what a mess there would have been if all this had melted. The flour bags were frozen on to the floor and a lot of the contents and the porridge spoilt. An early supper for John and Archie to get off, but during the meal the wind changed and there was a S.E. blizzard blowing when we were finished, and it would have been absurd to start - a great disappointment to them. The first quiet evening for a long time.
Saturday April 11th.
John was up early but decided the S.E. wind was too strong for starting, but it soon died down and they decided to go. It was incredibly warm, up to freezing point, but it was fine to be able to stand about outside without gloves or headgear and without the slightest discomfort. They had an unadventurous start. The base will be very dull and different without John who is generally the centre of amusement. The wind had blown all the ice out where the lead used to be, and we feared that the skiff would have disappeared. David, Dan and Karl went out to look for it, but in vain. This is rather a blow. Soon the wind changed to N.W. and by noon it was blowing a real gale. This kept us in in the afternoon and we started a grand spring clean. Brownie and Dan started on the ground floor, and David and I on the loft. The roof was covered by ice or hoar frost ½ to 1 inch thick and we only managed to get a little more than half the work done. On the S. side it came off quite easily - we have been hearing lumps of it falling at times during the last few days when the sun has been shining on the roof. With the high temperature in the morning there were drips everywhere in the house. Some lumps we just can't get off, but we can do about 95%, which will prevent a flood.
Sunday April 12th.
Blizzard. More spring cleaning, and David and I continued with the loft. At 5.30pm. the Northern party returned. Merratark has caused so much trouble that they found it impossible to manage the team and came back to wait till she is over it in a few days. Why instead of wasting days coming and waiting here - where there is no more food and less chance of getting any - they didn't either wait at North Cape and hunt from there, or else shoot the bitch and proceed, none of us can understand, nor Andrew explain. And then poor Sandy fell on the way home and is in bed with concussion.
Monday April 13th.
In the blizzard a most unpleasant day for changing charts. Sandy stays in bed. Spring cleaning proceeds. David and I unfortunately finished the loft - it's been good sport. In the evening the weather improved. I gave a tin of Horlicks tablets to the puppies and they ate them greedily; this is cheerful for we have two or three hundred tins of these and we still have a little cod liver oil (meant for us, but they love it!) so, poor things, they won't absolutely starve, but we would like to get them a good meal.