Thursday March 19th

At 12.15am. this morning (or last night) Sandy suddenly came to the conclusion that it would be best if Andrew and Archie and I got off this morning, and so it had to be so. Archie was to be left with tent and provisions on the Wargentin peninsula to hunt and be picked up on the way home. Sandy was up at 6am. to investigate the weather, and I was very annoyed when he came in and said it was calm and fine for travelling. So we got all ready, and after breakfast went out to lash up and found the wind getting up, and either fog or drift out in the bay. Since we had decided to go only if ideal we decided not to go, but when the wind dropped again Andrew and I went out into the middle of the bay to see what the wind and drift were like there. I was now keen to go, and enthusiastic to try a dash to Murchison Bay and back by 4pm. Saturday when the equinox International day begins. However, the wind was distinctly stronger and we decided to wait till Monday and in the meantime fatten up the dogs. So our food reserve was raided, and Sandy made a hoosh of bully, margarine and sago, and the dogs were brought into the hall in pairs and fed. Ozonoark came in for medical attention. Brownie made the first bag of the season bringing in a Mandt's guillemot which David examined biologically. It is wonderful to hear the sound of birds again.

John went out to look for seals in the afternoon, but in vain. You always know when he is going out, for he lifts the Singer machine on the table to patch his windproofs first. Andrew, Archie and Brownie went skiing, but I want to rest my heel. David put some sheepskin edging round his windproof hood, which was successful, and I must imitate. For me it's been one of these days when you always seem to be busy but really do nothing more than clear up. Conversation at supper turned on conjuring and hypnotism; David was full of it, and by strength of will John, Dan, David and Archie lifted me two inches off a chair with only one finger each, but we couldn't do the same to Dan! Then acrobatics for some time before settling down for the evening. Had just started a game of chess with Archie and remaking Sandy's duffel gloves at the same time, when an Aurora appeared overhead and we had two ionosphere runs on it. A pleasant quiet evening after that.

At midnight I remembered I had put bread in the oven at 7pm. but found it hardly browned so it must stay in all night and hope for the best.

Friday March 20th

To complete the sequel, the bread wasn't finished when Andrew started the fire off in the morning, but was burnt soon after. I have got into the habit of staying up late at night and getting up late (9.30 -10) in the morning - it helps to solve the congestion problem. Equinox today. Everyone hard at journey preparations. Dogs still being fed up on bully and margarine.

Saturday March 21st.

It's always fine and sunny now, and we haven't seen more than a trace of cloud for days now, and the temperature has stayed about -17℉. Really marvellous weather. The Blacks broke open the dog house and got out, so Andrew and I had to mend it, and the Blacks were left outside and the Oarks put inside. John and Dan went off surveying in the morning, and in the afternoon Sandy, Brownie and David went skiing. I prepared for special equinox International day beginning at 4pm. Since then we have been hard at it, a run every hour, though I miss every other one for developing. Everybody is very helpful; I think they enjoy doing it.

Sunday March 22nd.

It's always Sunday. International day has continued from yesterday. David has been the pernoctator with me, and an absolutely perfect companion he is. He has been learning to work the receiver, and we took it in turns to do it. He managed it well and I think enjoyed it. He is enterprising and seems to enjoy learning to do other things. It was light all through the night and about 4.30 the tops of Cape Hansteen and David's cairn were lit up with the most beautiful pink glow as the sun rose behind our hill, a beautiful tint below a pale blue sky and above the white bay and whitened rocks. Dan and John went off to survey but were driven back by wind, and Archie and Andrew found seals in a lead of open water to the North, and David and Sandy went "in quest of the Spitzbergen Ptarmigan." In the evening a party went off with the skiff and sledge to hunt seals, but David and I retired early to bed.

Just before getting into bed the hunters returned with three seals, and inside one found an unborn one.

Monday March 23rd.

Andrew let me sleep long and had done most of the work before I got up. Breakfast, and off at 8.45am. - with the inevitable cinematographers. It was a perfect cloudless still day, and though the temp. was -16℉ we soon got very hot, and I had to take my windproofs off after a bit. It was then that Andrew remembered he had left several things behind - the revolver, the short ski that Archie had worked late at to get ready in time, and our travelling chocolate. We were absolute fools not to go back for the gun, as we might easily meet a bear, and the loss of a single dog will probably wreck the northern journey

The ice was hummocky but hard, and we made a good time over to Karl's valley hut - Andrew with Odds and Sods in front, I with Blacks behind. I was sweating more than at any time since Eights last year by the time we reached the hut, and was glad of a small stop there, and we went in. It's the first time I've seen the hut since last autumn, and it really is a neat little abode. We wrote a note on the lid of a cheese carton. Then over the Hanstein valley - this time there were a large number of wind ridges and there was nearly a casualty when Andrew led into a place from which it was difficult to get out; he got down all right, with his rigid, but the Klepper nearly had its nose broken when I went over the edge. I lost a paraffin can sometime before I noticed the handle-bar wire had broken. The sledge wheel which had broken before went again, but we had it on for the rest of the journey, and it couldn't be put in a better position if it were really meant to bash your shins.

The valley ended rather steeply and I overturned the Nansen in trying to stop it running into the rigid in front, and the bow and right-hand runner got a bit damaged. Karl has another hut there, and we looked in, but he had not been there for some time. After that, over Lady Franklin Bay, and I led with the Odds and Sods. The going was very heavy, and after a bit Andrew went ahead with the Blacks; but this was no better, indeed it was worse, for he couldn't manage them; he was unfit too after being at A and had fits of giddiness. We struck the land by an uncharted island and we were definitely too far north - I wish I were more observant for really I was quite lost; looking for a green iceberg was not much help, for there was a row of six evenly spaced ones all along the shore. It was a bit better on land, but the soft snow made it hard work for the dogs. We have pitched camp after about an hour on land, and I hope we are not far from our camp of last time. The tent seems a bit small. Andrew has done the inside work and we have had our full rations of pemmican and could do with more. Found we had left even more things behind - paraffin funnel, pincers, saucepan handle.

It began to snow slightly, but it seems very warm - up to 0℉. A good day, on the whole, but I am very anxious about our position.

Tuesday March 24th.

Up at 5 after a good sleep with the tent door open all the time. Again clear and sunny, and we were off at 7, again Andrew ahead with the Blacks. He took some photos. We made height gradually, but I got more and more lost. Andrew was confident of finding the way, but got infuriated with the constant up and down. Again we soon got hot and windproofs off. Enchantingly coloured solar halo. After some time we found a way down, but it certainly was not the right one; we were at the top of a steep gulley with a sharp bend at the bottom. There was nothing to be done but go on down it; there was deep snow, but we put on drag ropes as it was very patchy. Andrew went ahead and disappeared round the bend, but I got stuck in the deep snow. I got out and they went off. I tried to brake with my heels in the orthodox manner, but lost my heels and had to brake with my knees - better in the deeper snow. The snow got harder, the runners cut through the drag rope, the sledge raced ahead out of control, rapidly overrunning the dogs, rounded the narrow bend, mounted the side and overturned. I thought the sledge had gone over Amalortok who was lame, but at the end of the crash found him sitting on top of the sledge. The handlebars were broken and a runner bent a bit.

Andrew had reached the bottom in safety, and after righting the sledge and getting the dogs straight I joined him in the bottom of the valley we should have come down. Then over Murchison Bay - this was sticky and a terrible surface. I led now with the Odds and Sods and for a bit they went really well, settling down to the order:- Angugssuak, Palase, Sesse, Hansigne, Amalortok, Merraterk, Angutinguak and they all go wonderfully well; little Hansigne is just marvellous, and with her in the centre steering is easy. On passing one island we saw four reindeer, but the dogs didn't see them.

Just afterwards Andrew noticed a hut further on on the island, and we went to investigate it as

it might be of great importance to the Ds. A hut with a room about 7ft square and a narrow hall in front, full of snow but apparently in quite good condition, but without doors. A fox track beside it.

Then on again. I had difficulty passing the north end of Inner Russian Island, for the dogs were determined to land, and did so till I stopped them; in trying to get them back Sesse got his trace wound round my legs, and in fright bit my hand as I tried to unwind him. Discovered the refreshing effect of snow and chocolate - chocolate ice. After that we ran into some pack and Andrew lost his temper frequently. We changed sledges, and got through quite quickly after only about half a mile of the pack. After that the surface was wet and very slow and the Blacks had a much harder time of it than the others. I fell far behind and really felt uncomfortable when we went along the new track of a really big bear. What fools we were about the gun.

The Blacks really did pull hard if slowly, even little Upik pulling like a Trojan between two enormous toughs. Andrew's temper became worse as we progressed and it was really unpleasant - making futile objections to being always sent for other people to look for a thing that doesn't exist. He now developed a bad knee, and at last I persuaded him to halt and go ahead on foot to prospect. We did so, but after a bit he said he could go on no further. I went on for some time and had a pleasant walk on the land too finding a lot of driftwood, but no sign of the hut or another bay: no doubt we were too far west for the bay. Andrew seemed better when I got back and we camped on the land with the dogs on the ice. Very anxious about bears as we have seen four other tracks as well as the big new ones.

Wednesday March 25th.

An uncomfortable night, as the tent hadn't been put up right and we couldn't stretch out. Drift and wind in the morning, and the sledges couldn't be seen from the tent, so we had to stay in.

Had a quiet morning reading, sleeeping, talking, thinking. It's no fun househunting for other people; there were so many things, and I turned it over in my brain and discussed it with Andrew; something like this:- should we make the dump on Hut Island ? advantage of the hut and a certain place for the dump, no pack to manhaul over and not far from David's dump in case I can't find it? No, surely the island is too small, and if decision wrong it means a big load to be taken elsewhere. But David is keen on having a hut. Should we take it down and move it ourselves - daren't suggest it to Andrew as we really haven't time, or tools. What about settling our load on Inner Russian Island with the old dump - then it would be more central if they decided either on South Russian Island or Hut Island? Or shall we look for a conspicuous place on S. Russian Island and put our dump there and leave David's; so that in either case only one dump would have to be moved? will it be too far for them to take the hut over to S. Russian Island and over the pack too? Didn't David say, on Inner Russian Island when we were there last time, that if it weren't for the chance of a hut, he would settle there at once? Yes, but he has found that paper since, showing the superiority of S. Russian Island........... Deliberating in this manner in my mind occupied most of the morning, and in the end we decided to make our dump on S. Russian Island - further East - and to fetch David's dump and to leave the hut - tho' this made it almost out of the question for the Ds to have any choice at all, but still.

In the afternoon it cleared and the sun shone, with a light wind and drift whirling along the ground. It was oppressively hot - right up to +20℉ - and the surface was soft and sticky, there was lots of water round the tide creek, and the tent was high on a snow hump - the rest having been blown away - and on the edge of a lake. One of the sledges was under water and the dogs unhappy, but intact.

We went off in opposite directions by foot to investigate, but Andrew soon came to the end of the island and climbed to the highest point. I, too, was convinced that we had passed the bay and had missed the N.E. point of the island. However I found an unmistakeable big rock with a cornice and hollow behind, and thought it would be a good place for the dump. I went on a bit and I am sure identified the bay, but couldn't see the hut. On the way home I met Andrew and he agreed with my suggestion that in view of our doubt as to our position - he soon questioned whether we were on the right island (which is quite possible) - we should mark a cape near the dump with a paraffin drum. On a conspicuous point I took some bearings and found an iron hoop on the top - like a part of a barrel: it looks as if the Russians had a party up there.

We went back to our camp and got packed up and started off. The surface was frightful and Andrew couldn't get the Blacks to go at all. His temper went again, and it was no use my keeping on stopping and starting, so I thought it would be more pleasant to go on myself, and then go back and help him. I should have taken my sledge straight back, but I didn't think he would relay on account of the Klepper so went back until I saw he had removed the Klepper etc, and so went back, and unpacked the rigid. He then arrived and after a few nasty words went back for the rest of the load while I started making the dump. When we had it all in the hollow and covered over, we set off - even with the empty sledges the going was slow, but when we reached the small pack between the islands it was hard and quite exciting. We found our old camp, and pitched our tent, as it was 10pm. by then. I had a short dig for the dump but couldn't find it - wish I had taken more notice when David buried it. Found an old fox trap quite near where I was looking.

The tent is up well this time; poor dogs, there is no food for them. Really tired in this atmosphere and have had full ½lb pemmican ration and ¼lb raw as well! Looks black, and am depressed at not finding dump.

Thursday March 26th.

Again wind and drift at first. Went out to dig for dump. Most unpleasant. After I had been digging for some time, Andrew gave up hope and fed the dogs. Then suddenly I hit it. Just made sure, then ran for cover, for A decided that if we couldn't move it today we would have to leave it, and leg it for home. Lay in sleeping bag and slept contentedly, and luckily the weather cleared in the afternoon, and Andrew decided we could risk a dash to the dump and back here again and thus not have to break up this camp.

We got the load lashed on and Andrew found a grand way through the pack. We left a paraffin drum on Drum point - it looked marvellous at a distance - and then finished off the dumping. All done, gott sei dank. The Blacks were mad and when Andrew tried to make them follow me down to the ice again they went in the opposite direction to investigate a hole, and it was some time before he got them down on to the ice on the other side of the rock when they decided to go back and have another look at the hole. At last he got the dogs and sledge behind me. We changed sledges and then away, but the Blacks thought they would have just one more look at that hole and dashed up to it and round to the top on the far side, the sledge falling into it, and quiet reigned only when they stopped at the top, with the sledge hanging almost vertically over the edge and with me hanging on and lying on my face at the bottom. After that they were more docile for a bit and followed the others home.

The surface was better now - temp. down to -18℉ - and riding an empty Nansen over pack ice behind a mad team was a sensation never to be forgotten, sheer excitement all the time and better than anything at Wembly. Once when I was behind after helping the sledge over a lump on the shore, they dashed ahead and dragged me about 50yds over loose stones, tearing my windproofs in many places.

We got home all right but the dogs could not be fed as there was only ½lb. pemmican left for each of them; they were ravenous too. Upik and Merratark had a fight and both were bleeding when separated. There was a convenient lump of ice in the form of an arch, and we anchored the Blacks by putting the sledge on one side and the dogs on the other with the traces passing through the arch. Peace reigned after a bit. Food getting scarce.

Friday March 27th.

My first day in bed since 1927. Though I had brought a large library I slept nearly all the time and couldn't even summon up energy enough to mend my windproofs. Finished half our porridge with an equal amount of sugar for breakfast; wouldn't be deprived of our full pemmican ration at night: we must keep warm and we can't keep the primus going all the time. Even the primus nearly failed at night due to rotten washer. Wind howling all the time. No special thoughts but was worried about the date, - thought it marked something important but in the end came to the conclusion that it is merely the date of the earliest Easter I remember.

Food situation critical: all we have now for both of us is:- 4oz porridge, 1lb pemmican, 1lb chocolate, 1lb sugar, 1½lb margarine, 20 Vita- weat (keep you slim), 2 edible candles. All right if you can get off tomorrow, but starvation awaits us if we don't. Not much paraffin either. Present weather: blizzard, temp -22℉, wind 20mph. Outlook ugly.

Saturday March 28th.

In spite of all last sleep we didn't wake till after 10am. Sun shining, not much wind and no drift. We tried to waste no time and soon had breakfast ready; we were finishing our porridge - this time with twice as much sugar as porridge. As a matter of fact we did waste a tremendous lot of time and didn't get going till 12.45. Upik was very lame, though Merratark seemed well. We cleared traces after going over the narrow neck of the island, and from there we went magnificently non-stop to more than half-way over Lady Franklin Bay - about 25 miles - before we had to stop. Upik had been lagging behind all the time and had got the traces entangled, though half way across Lady Franklin Bay they were tangled for no more than 18 inches - much better than the Odds and Sods. The Blacks really were superb today - they are a magnificent following team.

It was a bit cold at first riding across Murchison Bay; I was wearing komager as my finneskos had fallen to bits, but they were adequately warm. Got hot crossing the Wargentin peninsul, and was warm ever after. Lost the broken whip in Hansteen valley coming out of which we got lost and arrived at the top of a steep descent into the bay; it proved too steep for the Nansen and I couldn't stop it overturning. However all was well. Andrew then decided to try the direct route to the Base across the pack, but before long he regretted it, and more. It was sweaty work, but I rather enjoyed it though my komager got broken to bits. It gradually got better and we could ride in. The tide guage nearly met a sad ending, for Akuliak was determined they should go to the right of it while Kungasenak was set on the left. I had no whip and they were heading for it at a great pace, but I just managed to jump off and catch them up and turn them.

We got in at 7.45 after a perfect journey. Andrew is wonderful when all goes well. We had a huge meal. We were supposed to have returned via the Advanced Base and disestablished B finally, but we had raced home on account of the dog food. We found Sandy had gone to the Advanced Base geologising. So there was a lot of deciding as to who were to go down next day. Andrew was rather busy, and John and Dan couldn't decide whether to take their observations next from B or from Cape Hansteen. At last they decided it must be Cape Hansteen first, and so luckily there was no alternative but that I should be one, and Archie (who was asleep) the other.